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  #1  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:50 AM
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Default Pro CDP II Feed Problems

Issues raised in a different thread notwithstanding, I have been having significant FTF problems with my Custom Pro CDP II. The gun has been examined by Kimber, and by two local smiths. My own examination convinces me that the problem rests with the barrel hood. Whenever the gun fails to feed, the cartridge appears to be hung up on the underside back edge of the barrel hood. This is true 100% of the time when trying to feed SWCs and often when trying to feed JHPs.

When I examine the underside of the hood with a jeweler's loupe, the rear edge looks rough, and that's where the cartridges are hanging up. The rim of the brass casing catches on the edge of the hood.

Question: What is the downside risk of polishing the edge of the hood a little with a dremel tool?

Thanks for any assistance with this issue.

Oh, BTW, I retrieved all of my records and found that I had paid a local gunsmith to professionally clean the gun because I didn't have a takedown tool at the time. That was before the gun was sent back to Kimber. The gun is quite clean, and cleanliness seems to have nothing to do with the FTF issue.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:41 PM
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What kind of magazine are you using?

I highly recommend using the Wilson Combat Elite Tactical Magazine. I have a Pro Carry and had one FTF at 750 rounds using the standard Kimber mag. That was one too many for me. I bought Wilson Combat mags and have never had another FTF. Now at 1350 rounds.

I can't really give advice on taking off metal...I'm just a YouTube gun smith which is worse than knowing nothing according to a gun smith I met today to install some sights.

Buying one magazine and testing with it is pretty cheap. I'd give that a try since it is the magazine's job to do the feeding.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:45 PM
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This is the WC ETM mag....*bonus: it holds 8 rounds* ....the gun smith today said that WC ETM was the best magazine out there.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:54 PM
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Wink Go for it!!

If the barrel has a rough edge that is causing cartridges to hang up while feeding, I see no problem in smoothing out the edge. I would caution you against going crazy with a Dremel tool!! I would advise the use of either an extremely fine jeweler's file, a fine sharpening stone or some well oiled 600 grit emery cloth. The idea is to SMOOTH, not remove metal!!

Another course of action (and actually the first choice) is just to feed it a bunch of good old fashioned American made FMJ GI hardball (some folks, INCLUDING THE FOLKS AT KIMBER, commonly refer to this as breaking in your pistol!!! ) The rounded nose of the FMJ ammo will definitely knock the edge off and smooth it out. About 500 rounds should do the job. If that doesn't work, then have at with the abrasive action and some serious elbow grease!!

Good luck! BTW, the SWC and hollow points are hard to get some 1911 to digest. After the break in/polishing it should feed much better. Thankfully, I was blessed with a 1911 Kimber that has always ate anything that I feed it.
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:06 PM
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Agree with lineman. In addition to testing a different magazine, I'd try FMJ ammo. If you keep having hang ups with FMJ and a WC mag, then you know the gun is the issue. Process of elimination. And yeah, go very light on the filing, polishing, etc. Metal is easy to take off and real hard to put back.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:34 PM
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Post Pro CDP II Feed Problems

To try to answer everybody in a single post:

I use Wilson Combat magazines, and I keep track of which of them has feed problems. So far, neither of my two mags is any worse than the other one. I have no other magazines, and I purchased these magazines a little over two years ago from the same shop that cleaned my gun and test fired it. They recommended that I replace the stock Kimber mags, so I did. The magazines hold 8 rounds.

More than 800 rounds have been fired through the gun, and I just received my order of another 300 rounds of Remington UMC 230 gr. hardball today. I will definitely shoot all 300 rounds of this ammo before making a decision as to what I will do with the gun.

The folks at Kimber told me that the gun was not designed to shoot anything but 230 gr, round nose FMJ Ball ammunition, and that Kimber would not warrant that the gun would shoot any other ammunition reliably. Also, page #25 of my Kimber Operational Manual states: "NOTE: 1911 style handguns in 45 ACP were designed to function best with bullets that have a smooth contoured nose." The folks at Kimber pointed this out to me when I called them about my feeding problems with SWCs and JHPs. What really puzzles me is that it appears that other Pro CDP II owners are able to shoot these rounds reliably.

I used to own a very accurate Colt Gold Cup, and I regularly shot 190 gr. cast SWCs with no feeding problems whatsoever, so I guess I might have ignored the warning in the manual as being typical legalese. My mistake, I guess. It never occurred to me that a premium firearm like the Kimber might be less reliable than a Colt.

I shot 200 rounds of PMC 230 gr. FMJ ammo at the range a week apart over the past three weeks (last week and the week before - 100 rounds each week). Each time, I had two FTF stoppages. Four FTFs in 200 rounds gives me a 2% FTF rate, which is excessive, in my book.

I wish I had a way to take a clear picture of the barrel hood through a jeweler's loupe and post it so that you can see what I am referring to. Maybe I'll give that another try tomorrow. It isn't real rough, but it is certainly rougher than what I would expect from a custom shop. It is the bevel between the back of the hood, and the underside -- right where the edge of the brass must pass when feeding a new round. If I was shooting hand loads, I would wonder about the crimp, but this is all factory ammo.

With an open and locked slide and a full magazine of Federal Premium 185 grain FMJ Semi-Wadcutter ammo, the first round will not feed when the slide is released. It will never feed, and Kimber tells me that the gun was not designed for use with Semi-Wadcutters. I suppose that is a reasonable position for them to take, and I would understand it completely, if everybody who owned this model of 1911 had the same issue ...

Thanks for the suggestions. I appreciate the help.

Last edited by Richard; 03-12-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:04 PM
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Default Picture of Barrel Hood

This is the best I was able to do. Note the irregularities and tool marks in the edge of the hood. All of the edges of the barrel hood show tool marks. I am not a machinist, but this seems to be a bit rough, especially for a gun that is supposed to be of such high quality. I know for a fact that the gun came from Kimber this way, and that no local smith made these marks, because I saw them before anybody tried to fix the problem..

2014-03-13-Kimber Barrel Hood.JPG

I hope this helps.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:46 PM
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I'm no expert, but I agree that doesn't look right. I'd call Kimber again.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:57 PM
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Default Barrel Hood

Originally Posted by Islander View Post
I'm no expert, but I agree that doesn't look right. I'd call Kimber again.
They haven't really been very friendly, in my experience.

It costs me almost $100 to ship the gun back to their shop in New York, so I would like to limit the number of times I send it to them and then get it back with nothing really fixed.

Do you think this can be repaired by a local smith with some machine tools, or do you think the whole barrel should be replaced?
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard View Post
They haven't really been very friendly, in my experience.

It costs me almost $100 to ship the gun back to their shop in New York, so I would like to limit the number of times I send it to them and then get it back with nothing really fixed.

Do you think this can be repaired by a local smith with some machine tools, or do you think the whole barrel should be replaced?
Well, like I said, I'm not an expert. If you would rather go to a local gunsmith it's probably not a bad idea to have one look at it and see what they say.
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