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Old 12-07-2016, 09:27 AM   #1
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I have an ammo question

Can anyone tell me the difference between FMJ with a boxer-primed brass casing, a Berdan-primed steel casing, and a Berdan-primed aluminum casing? The steel casing will obviously hold to a magnet, the other 2 won't. I think I read somewhere that you cannot use the magnetic casing at an indoor range. Can you also tell me what the reasoning is behind that restriction? Thank you.
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:12 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by starnovi View Post
Can anyone tell me the difference between FMJ with a boxer-primed brass casing, a Berdan-primed steel casing, and a Berdan-primed aluminum casing? The steel casing will obviously hold to a magnet, the other 2 won't. I think I read somewhere that you cannot use the magnetic casing at an indoor range. Can you also tell me what the reasoning is behind that restriction? Thank you.
I think you are getting the cartridge case mixed up with the bullet jacket. It makes no difference as far as brass, steel or aluminum cases go. Some ranges don't let you use magnetic bullets- steel coated bullets or other similar buletsand they say that any bullet that is magnetic can cause a spark when it hits the backstop and possibly cause a fire.
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:12 AM   #3
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I believe the boxer primed cartridges are less corrosive and also require a shorter strike from the firing pin? I have a Ruger Mini 30 and have read there are problems with reliability when using the Berdan primed steel cased ammo. The problem in this case is with the primers and not the cases. There's an updated (longer) firing pin kit out there that will cure the problem. The kit is not made by Ruger, they suggest sticking with the stock set up and boxer primed ammo.
I think it's up to the specific range on the ammo and think it has to do with sorting it out later? I'm not sure on that though?
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:54 AM   #4
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Starnovi, things may have changed but it used to be Berdan primed ammo can NOT be reloaded or at least not easily. I always heard Berdan primed ammo was a lot more corrosive than other ammo.
I bought some Berdan primed .45acp ammo once, may still have some, it was real cheap which was good but it also did NOT always go bang when you pulled the trigger.
The ammo I bought was brass cased but Berdan primed and we never bothered to pick up the spent brass.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:04 PM   #5
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Brass is what's been used forever. It can be resized for reloading, and is more expensive than other metals. Aluminum is not as durable, but it's cheap. Steel casings are cheap and durable for use under adverse conditions. Often, steel is coated for corrosion resistance. Steel is harder on your gun.

Boxer style casings have a single flash hole between the primer pocked and the inside of the cartridge. When reloading, a pin is pushed through that hole, knocking out the spent primer. Berdan cases were initially used for a supposed increase in reliability. The Berdan case has two small holes between the primer pocket and the inside of the cartridge. Because the holes are not on center, the cases cannot be easily decapped for reloading.

I'll shoot any of the above. But if the price is right, there's no reason whatsoever to shoot anything other than boxer primed brass ammo.
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Old 12-07-2016, 01:03 PM   #6
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I exclusively shoot Tul in ALL my high volume guns. Makes pickup of 15-20k rds a year on the farm a breeze dragging around a huge magnet & 10gallon bucket once a week.

coincidently it shoots AMAZING, 1in groups at 32yards w the 3in ultra standing and 9 out of 9 hits at 350yards on 3ft target w the suppressed TLE II.
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Old 12-07-2016, 03:57 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by TheYoungConnoisseur View Post
I exclusively shoot Tul in ALL my high volume guns. Makes pickup of 15-20k rds a year on the farm a breeze dragging around a huge magnet & 10gallon bucket once a week.

coincidently it shoots AMAZING, 1in groups at 32yards w the 3in ultra standing and 9 out of 9 hits at 350yards on 3ft target w the suppressed TLE II.
That just made me waste some good vodka all over my laptop...

Come on dude, if anyone was that good they would be teaching and have a line out the door....

Gotta call BS on that...
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:12 PM   #8
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Well, I brought the Tula to the range with me today and asked them if I could use it, and they said yes. It is steel casing but not steel core. Had no problems with it, but I was not using any Kimber pistols today! Oops, I am wrong about that, I did have the SS Raptor II, put a few through it without any problems. It did not like the Blazer aluminum core with snub nose, 1st spent cartridge jammed into the barrel.

Last edited by starnovi; 12-07-2016 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by starnovi View Post
Well, I brought the Tula to the range with me today and asked them if I could use it, and they said yes. It is steel casing but not steel core. Had no problems with it, but I was not using any Kimber pistols today! Oops, I am wrong about that, I did have the SS Raptor II, put a few through it without any problems. It did not like the Blazer aluminum core with snub nose, 1st spent cartridge jammed into the barrel.
Have you cleaned your gun yet ??

My stainless revolvers were hard as heck to clean up since Tul Ammo seems to be a wee bit dirty...
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Marshall View Post
Have you cleaned your gun yet ??

My stainless revolvers were hard as heck to clean up since Tul Ammo seems to be a wee bit dirty...
Oh, not yet. On my way to Atlanta tonight. Pistol cleaning tomorrow, but I only put about 15-20 rounds of Tula through it.
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