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Old 11-24-2016, 08:17 AM   #11
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Extractor tension is strong, if not excessive. I can't shake a empty out of it, and new round sticks in pretty good too.

I have most of the 600 or so casings and some have interesting marks. Some with a little tearing at the rim with 2 small axial scrapes 180 degrees out.
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:05 AM   #12
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Did you consider sending it back to Kimber? If they pay the shipping, you're out nothing. But you know what they say if you want something done right...

I might be inclined to round off all the sharp corners where the extractor could gouge the casing. All the corners on the bottom side of the slot could be suspect. Use a fine file. Maybe finish with crocus cloth for a very smooth surface. You know that the repairmen at Kimber won't give it that degree of attention.

Do that first, then adjust the tension later if you need to. What's the worst that could happen? If you totally goof it up, a new extractor is thirty bucks.

Rob
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Old 11-24-2016, 03:05 PM   #13
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Sounds like a plan. I'll hit it with a fine stone, and test it tomorrow. Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2016, 04:11 PM   #14
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You may look up Jerry Knudsen book regarding the 45. You can see and have a great explanation of the extractor tension and the hook formation. There is a need to have the corner of the hook beveled to properly tip and throw the shell from the chamber. I can't tell for sure if your extractor is broken or not.
I will be happy to email you a PDF of both of his shop manuals.
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Old 11-24-2016, 04:19 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Nellybelle View Post
I will be happy to email you a PDF of both of his shop manuals.
Please, sir, may I have a copy?
I'm intrigued by what you just said about tipping the spent casing.
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Old 11-24-2016, 04:25 PM   #16
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Send me your email to [email protected] and I will email you the PDF of both copies.
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Old 11-25-2016, 02:59 PM   #17
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Nellybelle, thank you for that offer. I will email you my address directly.

I took a few rounds with me to the range today after dressing the extractor a teensy bit.

Loaded 5 rounds of 130 +P FMJ in the magazine: all cycled OK
Loaded 9 rounds of 130 +P FMJ in the magazine: 1st round FTE, 2nd round FTE
Unloaded the magazine by hand (dammit)
Loaded 9 rounds of Armscor non +P 125 FMJ: all cycled OK
Loaded 5 rounds of Pow'r Ball 100 +P. First round: FTE. After I cleared it and chambered the next one, I rapid fired and all cycled OK.
Hmmm....
In a different magazine, I loaded 9 rounds of 130 +P FMJ, shot rapid fire, all cycled OK.

This pistol hates +P ammo and Metalform mags. I still have 400 rounds of the +P remaining.

I am pretty sure Kimber says not to fire +P ammo in this gun.

The guy next to me had a suppressed long gun of some sort. It sounded like a blown up sandwich bad being popped slowly. Weird.
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:04 PM   #18
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Kimbers stance on +P ammo:

+P ammo manufactured to SAAMI specs is fine to use as a defensive round or for occasional range use only. Our pistols are rated to handle +P ammo. However, we do not recommend a steady diet of them, as they are rough on the pistol and will accelerate the wear on the gun and may shorten the life of the recoil spring.
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:04 AM   #19
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If you haven't done it already, take a look at the Wilson Combat flat wire spring kit for the 38 Super, 4" barrel. I think you will find the service life and performance far better than the Kimber standard, or Wolfe, and they are on sale right now.
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:49 AM   #20
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Jflytle, is the WC spring mod something you did, or has yours always functioned OK? Do you EDC your PCII HD?
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