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Old 07-28-2015, 12:27 AM   #1
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SIS Ultra saved from a trade in. NEW INFO ADDED.

An SIS Ultra was shown to me by a man I have been training. He is the original owner and would like to carry the gun though it was unreliable. He asked for me to shoot it. I field stripped and checked for proper lube and a reasonable cleaning. The man wondered it was him since these small slide guns are fast and violent and susceptible to stoppages with improper technique.

The gun would failure to chamber several times on each and every compact and full size mag used. Wilson 47s, Kimbers or Metalforms.

It was destined to be imprisoned in the used section of a glass case in Missouri. I brought it home. I know very few people carrying 3" guns so I rarely see them. But what the hell.

Tore apart and checked. Used a Manson finished reamer and headspace gauges. Again metal came out. Lengthen the free ore or leade and polish.

Pulled extractor. Tension was fine. Cut the gap from the standard Kimber .069" to .073". A little shorter than the .075" I do to the full size guns. Cut the bevel and radius the bottom. Then polish and reblued with Brownells 44/40.

Wanted to slow the slide and violence of action. Usually use EGW oversized square bottom firing pin stops but after using a few hammers and Sears of Harrison Design I went with his small radius but three angle surface firing pin stop. His parts are beautiful works of art.

The Harrison stop was perfect fit side to side in the slide and flush with the disco rail of the slide. So far no fitting. Perfect fit in the firing pin stop notch of the Kimber extractor and no clocking.

I did have to relieve the two cuts to fit and clear the ejector. Re lie with 44/40 on the cut surfaces.

New Wolff inner and outer recoil spring on the Kimber recoil guide rod assembly.

Edited and ADDED info. Without shortening overall length, rounded over that flat area and radius we the edge on the rear side of the disconnector. The slide seemed to stub here pretty badly. I increased the radius of the disconnector/loading rail but rather oblong slightly ramping it to the rear till the slide would go forward over the disconnector much smoother.

200 rounds without any issue. Smoother. Less violent. Less muzzle flip. Strong hand weak hand or both hands. No issue. With me or the owner when he flew in to train this weekend. It got shot more and will now be his daily carry! Saved from the glass display case in the trade in department.
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Last edited by Mike240; 07-28-2015 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:48 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Mike240 View Post
An SIS Ultra was shown to me by a man I have been training. He is the original owner and would like to carry the gun though it was unreliable. He asked for me to shoot it. I field stripped and checked for proper lube and a reasonable cleaning. The man wondered it was him since these small slide guns are fast and violent and susceptible to stoppages with improper technique.

The gun would failure to chamber several times on each and every compact and full size mag used. Wilson 47s, Kimbers or Metalforms.

It was destined to be imprisoned in the used section of a glass case in Missouri. I brought it home. I know very few people carrying 3" guns so I rarely see them. But what the hell.

Tore apart and checked. Used a Manson finished reamer and headspace gauges. Again metal came out. Lengthen the free ore or leade and polish.

Pulled extractor. Tension was fine. Cut the gap from the standard Kimber .069" to .073". A little shorter than the .075" I do to the full size guns. Cut the bevel and radius the bottom. Then polish and reblued with Brownells 44/40.

Wanted to slow the slide and violence of action. Usually use EGW oversized square bottom firing pin stops but after using a few hammers and Sears of Harrison Design I went with his small radius but three angle surface firing pin stop. His parts are beautiful works of art.

The Harrison stop was perfect fit side to side in the slide and flush with the disco rail of the slide. So far no fitting. Perfect fit in the firing pin stop notch of the Kimber extractor and no clocking.

I did have to relieve the two cuts to fit and clear the ejector. Re lie with 44/40 on the cut surfaces.

New Wolff inner and outer recoil spring on the Kimber recoil guide rod assembly.

Edited and ADDED info. Without shortening overall length, rounded over that flat area and radius we the edge on the rear side of the disconnector. The slide seemed to stub here pretty badly. I increased the radius of the disconnector/loading rail but rather oblong slightly ramping it to the rear till the slide would go forward over the disconnector much smoother.

200 rounds without any issue. Smoother. Less violent. Less muzzle flip. Strong hand weak hand or both hands. No issue. With me or the owner when he flew in to train this weekend. It got shot more and will now be his daily carry! Saved from the glass display case in the trade in department.
I thought that was going to be a "it followed me home story" and I gave it a good new home. But good job on helping the guy out.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:28 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 2sharp2 View Post
I thought that was going to be a "it followed me home story" and I gave it a good new home. But good job on helping the guy out.
Was never an SIS fan. But was glad to make it reliable and wanted to share the method with others having Ultra sized gun issues. Not hard to do.
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:08 AM   #4
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I love that kind of gun talk. I don't always know what it means, but I still love it.
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:20 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mike240 View Post
Pulled extractor. Tension was fine. Cut the gap from the standard Kimber .069" to .073". A little shorter than the .075" I do to the full size guns. Cut the bevel and radius the bottom.
My knowledge of extractor adjustment is close to nothing. Whatever you have to say on the subject, there are plenty of us listening.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by RustyIron View Post
My knowledge of extractor adjustment is close to nothing. Whatever you have to say on the subject, there are plenty of us listening.
The gap between the breechface and inner surface of the hook or claw is the most often overlooked part of extractor correction. And every Kimber 45 I have measured is .069". Too tight.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:22 PM   #7
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So can I use this info for other calibers? Like take the rim thickness and add 25%, or 0.016"?

And what else, polish the back side and the breech face?

How about spring tension? I've not checked all my guns, but my Solo that was readjusted by Kimber seems to have a weak spring.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:52 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by RustyIron View Post
So can I use this info for other calibers? Like take the rim thickness and add 25%, or 0.016"?

And what else, polish the back side and the breech face?

How about spring tension? I've not checked all my guns, but my Solo that was readjusted by Kimber seems to have a weak spring.
A formula like that I don't think will work. I am not a gunsmith. I know two systems pretty dang well. The 1911 and M16/ARs. The variable would be the feed angle. The angle at which the rim enters and cams upward to get under control of the extractor. It would vary gun to gun make.

I do not own a Solo nor anyone that does. I would love to mess with a bad one to work on as a challenge.

I can say that .075" on 45 1911s and .064" on 9mm and 40 1911s works.
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Insta-Gator View Post
I love that kind of gun talk. I don't always know what it means, but I still love it.
I use to think the same thing when I would read playboy,



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Old 07-29-2015, 08:44 PM   #10
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OK on a serious note, Mike I wish I could send you all my kimbers and have you tune them up. I have no clue what your talking about but I would love to learn. Maybe you could pick a different repair topic from time to time and teach us on here.



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