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Old 05-17-2016, 08:41 PM   #1
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Kimber Extractor

Hey, I am new to the forum, Kimbers and 1911s for the most part.
I recently purchased a Kimber Pro Carry 2 in 9mm. Well to say the least I was disappointed with the gun out of the box. First 50 rounds where fine. Then............I had several failure to feeds and then the gun would not go into battery. Actually had to get the range official to hit the gun with a rubber hammer to get a round out of the chamber that was stuck. I sent the gun back to Kimber. I got it back almost 4 weeks later. There was a work order with the gun that stated the feed ramp was polished and the extractor was adjusted. I have shot over 150 rounds with not one problem. This was with FMJ and HP of different weights. My Question is - I field stripped the gun and took out the Firing Pin. The Extractor would not come out. I tapped on it with a tool and it would move maybe 1/8 of an inch but that's it. I have seen takedown videos where the extractor would easily come out, almost fall out. Is there something wrong ? Should I force it out and take a chance on messing up a reliable gun as it is now ? Do I need to take the extractor out to clean or just be happy with pouring some rubbing alcohol down it. If I do get it out will it mess with the adjustment that was done at the factory ? Any tips would be appreciated.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:13 PM   #2
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It is common that 9mm extractors are difficult to remove. Remember the gun was designed to be a 45 and the extractor channel is in the same place but the breech face is smaller for the case. Do not beat on the claw end to force it out as you can damage it. Rotating the extractor by the notch for firing pin stop ninety degrees should roll the end and the tension to facilitate removal. It is not needed to remove the extractor as part of normal cleaning. I may only do it every 5-10k rounds.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:13 PM   #3
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First, welcome to the forum! Second, why did you feel you had to take it apart? What you're describing is a whole lot more then field stripping. You may want to watch some YouTube video's on how to clean a 1911.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:18 PM   #4
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The extractor will not come out enough to rotate.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:38 PM   #5
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Does the hook part of the extractor overhang the breechface slightly? Usually it does. There is a tool for this but can be done without. Use a brass rod or punch to push the nose away from the breechface while pushing it to the rear. Once the claw is in the channel it will come out.

The way to rotate it with out the tool is to tap at the bottom end in the firing pin slot with an L shaped Rod. But the previous method usually works easiest for those unfamiliar with the complete disassembly. Again if the gun is running reliably I would remove it anyway. Just use the small end of a M16 toothbrush to clean under the hook at the breechface.

I literally run my 1911s thousands of rounds before cleaning and rarely remove an extractor that doesn't indicate a problem.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:49 PM   #6
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The hook part does hang over ever so slightly. This must be the issue. Does the firing pin channel need to cleaned more often than the extractor ? Thoughts on just pouring some alcohol to clean these hard to reach areas ?Thanks
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:51 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Eckmann View Post
The hook part does hang over ever so slightly. This must be the issue. Does the firing pin channel need to cleaned more often than the extractor ? Thoughts on just pouring some alcohol to clean these hard to reach areas ?Thanks
I would use a firearm solvent for cleaning.
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:53 AM   #8
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Welcome to the forum from northern Illinois Eckmann.
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:00 AM   #9
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I've had to adjust extractors to where they are difficult to get in or out.
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:29 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Eckmann View Post
The hook part does hang over ever so slightly. This must be the issue. Does the firing pin channel need to cleaned more often than the extractor ? Thoughts on just pouring some alcohol to clean these hard to reach areas ?Thanks
Like Mike mentioned these areas do not require too much attention. I believe Kimber even suggests not taking things down to that level and sending the pistol in when you reach the point when the firing pin spring is due for changing.
Since you're in there though just clean out/off with gun cleaning solvent and wipe down, use a Q tip for the channels and computer duster if you have some to blow it all out. These areas are best left DRY, oil will attract carbon and other crud and gunk things up. Remember the small side of the firing pin spring goes on the hammer side of the firing pin. I think there's a sticky on slide disassembly that may help.
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