Afraid not. I haven't convinced myself that grease it the wise way to go. It accumulates more gunk than a thin, light oil. Since I clean and lube after every range visit, the extended qualities of a grease doesn't do much for me.
OldSoul, per the owners manual, Kimber recommends not using grease. Grease is oil with thickening agents and was developed for things like bearings that are enclosed and not easily oiled, and where viscosity is not an issue. Kimbers have tight tolerances and just need a thin film of oil on a few spots. I'm no expert but I've learned that the owners manual does have a few tidbits of wisdom I'm glad I read.
Talking about lube is a why to start a big discussion. For me I use M-PRO7 on my Kimbers and Slide Glide on the rails of everything else. I do not use grease on carry guns because of the dirt that sticks to the grease.
I've probably used every oil ever made for guns and a lot that weren't made for guns, guess what they all worked. I've been playing with Brian Enos slide glide on a couple of my older Kimbers and my new Sig P238 with no problems.
There is nothing wrong with using grease on your 1911; it's all up to you. I've spoken to Kimber about this and their concern is the over use of grease (novice) and in the wrong places. Many of my friends use Shooter's Choice red grease as do I on the rails, lugs and barrel hood. It comes in a syringe which is ideal for pin point application and is really nice for extended range times. I use oil on everything else but for metal on metal high wear areas grease is my preference.
I like to break out the wife's hair dryer and Frog Lube the external surfaces of my guns. For metal to metal contact areas, I am a WD40 man. I used it on all of my tools with moving parts when I was a young Lineman. It kept all of them rust free and moving.
Worked then, still works now!! ! If Frog Lube had been invented then, I might have used that. What every lineman needs.....a minty fresh smelling chain hoist!!!