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New and need some help

4K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  Roxie32 
#1 ·
Hello all, I'm new to any gun forum. I'm also new to the firearm world. I recently purchased two brand new Kimber custom Crimson carry 2 1911's. I really like the way the gun looks and how accurate they are. However, both seem to have the same issue: failure to feed. I replaced both stock magazines with Wilson 47dcb mags. The problem is slightly better I guess but still jams. Sometimes it jams on first round going in or the third or the fifth or the last. Where should I be going to next to address this issue? I was really hoping the magazine was the problem as I have read the stock mags are not the greatest. But doesn't seem like the case. Both guns are still in the break in phase as they have about 300 rounds down range. But it's a slow 300 they jam quite a bit. Are they just tight? Should I be adjusting the extractors? Will the extractors loosen on there own? Like I said I'm new to this stuff, I would prefer not to send both my guns back to Kimber if it's an easy fix. But bottom line is they are far off from being carry equipment if I can't get this reliability issue resolved.

Thank you to everyone, I have learned a great deal from this forum just by reading over the last few months but I needed to post because I need some advice.
 
#2 · (Edited)
My Custom Crimson II did the same thing. I finally shot through my problem.
Long and frustrating. I sent my Super Carry ultra plus to local gunsmith and he throated the chamber and adjusted extractor. Runs like a top, cost $40.00 . I sent my Solo back to KIMBER and they tuned it up so it runs fine.
I suggest you put another couple hundred rounds through them with good cleanings , and if they don't free up send them back the KIMBER.
I know it's frustrating but once they run right you are going to love them.
 
#5 ·
I have used different ammo. I will run some more through them to get it through the break in phase. I love them already. There is a weird connection that you have with them. It's very neat and I can see why there is a forum dedicated to this stuff. Thanks for your responses. I will keep you updated.
 
#12 · (Edited)
What an unfortunate situation, Rox. It would probably be better if Kimber charged a hundred bucks more, but handed each gun to a competent gunsmith for an hour. The customer would still be saving money over buying hundreds of rounds of ammo. Call Kimber in on Monday and tell them you have two new Kimbers, and neither works. There's no excuse for that with a modern 1911. They should happily swallow any ammo you throw at them.
 
#20 ·
What an unfortunate situation, Rox. It would probably be better if Kimber charged a hundred bucks more, but handed each gun to a competent gunsmith for an hour. The customer would still be saving money over buying hundreds of rounds of ammo. Call Kimber in on Monday and tell them you have two new Kimbers, and neither works. There's no excuse for that with a modern 1911. They should happy swallow any ammo you throw at them.
Agreed! Every full size Kimber has the same issues and I correct them before the first round is fired in an hour or less. Break in periods are bullshit. Do the chamber right the first time. Extractor clearance and tension. Lobe on slide stop. Done
 
#13 ·
Yeah, I don't want to do anything besides clean them at this point. This way if it is just a break in thing. I'm hoping this is the case, which it might be because both have the exact same issue. Maybe they are just a little tight? I've read on here that sometimes the extractor is too high in tension from the factory, could that cause a fail to feed? I bet it's something small and minor. But it does cause issue for me because when they jam they jam hard. It's tough for me to get them freed up.

The holiday season is tough, but when I get some time I will be sure to run more ammo through them. I've been liking the federal or Winchester brand. Are the right for these 1911's? Guess I should have asked that earlier. On the plus side if it's not the stock magazine causing issue then I'll have two for each which would save me $$$.
 
#15 ·
Welcome to the forum. Sorry that you are experiencing problems. Most of us have been through it and we all stick with our Kimbers because once you get past this phase, they run great, look great, and you will love them! I would clean and lube them, and run them wet during break in period. If you have numerous mags, I would use a permanent marker on bottom and number each mag. This way you can keep track if a specific mag is causing most problems. Bring a pad and pencil with you to range. Write down which ammo you are using and which mag and keep track of failures and how many rounds you used. Using this method, I was able to isolate a problem with a particular magazine, when I took the mag apart, the follower was stuck and wouldn't drop. Also, some of my pistols do not like the flat nosed ammo, and they also do better with heavier ammo. Keeping track at each outing will also give you good info for Kimber if you need to send them in. Good luck.
 
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#17 ·
...I realize there's an accepted break in period but it sounds like something isn't right to me? I'd send one in and let the folks in Yonkers look it over, it's free. In the mean time shoot a few hundred more rounds with the other cleaning after each use. Keep track of the ammo you use and as has been mentioned, mags. Maybe it will shoot itself into proper form but if you're having problems at 500 rounds send that one in too. You weren't specific about the number of malfunctions you're getting but it sounded like more than a few. Screw that, let the shop fix it IMO :)
 
#19 · (Edited)
Failure to feed for sure? usually the Kimber problems are Failure to Chamber and or Failure to Return to Battery/Lock. Many don't know the difference but knowing is what determines the problem and fix.

The extractor tension could be too heavy but kimbers usually do not have enough hook clearance in the first place so lightening tension just allows the case rim to get in easier. But with real hot ammo or weakened recoil spring the hook will jump the rim leaving the case in the chamber.

Not to sound a know it all but I wrote a couple stickies threads in the Gunsmith section that should help to understand the 1911 a bit better.
 
#21 ·
I agree, my take on Kimber chambers is they over use their reamers. Sharpen them too many times leading to shallow tight chambers. Of the six I have owned, I have had to finish ream two. I own my own finish reamer so I corrected them myself in only a few minutes. But it is frustrating that if you do not own or know how to use the tools needed, you would have to ship your new gun back for adjustments that should of been done before the gun was shipped.

A break in period should not be to get your gun running right. It is to smooth the operation of the firearm, mating the various parts. I've said it before, if Kimber would tighten their quality control of chambers and extractors returns for service would lesson dramatically.
 
#22 ·
Welcome to the forum from a Middle Tennessean. Lots of good information has been put forth. You shouldn't be having this type of problems with new pistols. When you are not at the range, have you tried these while sitting around? Snap Caps...to check things.

 
#23 ·
Welcome to the site from Tennessee.

Original factory Kimber magazines IMO get a lot of bad publicity, I've never had a problem with any of my original mags and I have 13. Guess I'm lucky as crap cause not experienced any malfunctions with any of my Kimbers right out of the box.
 
#24 ·
Welcome to the site from Tennessee.

Original factory Kimber magazines IMO get a lot of bad publicity, I've never had a problem with any of my original mags and I have 13. Guess I'm lucky as crap cause not experienced any malfunctions with any of my Kimbers right out of the box.
Agree with this also, most of the time if a gun is finicky with what magazines it will work with. It is just masking a problem with the gun, a well running 1911 should work with any quality 1911 mag. We all have our favorites but I expect my 1911s to work with the basic Kimber mags just as well as with my high dollar Tripp mags.

I've never encountered a tight Kimber chamber in a Pro or Ultra only in the 5" barrels. Sharp your experience with them is probably more the norm.
 
#27 ·
I'm sure all you guys have guessed that I am a female. Going from the user name. I do have mechanical skills. But as for firearms I am fairly new. If you think the extractor is to heavy in tension I can adjust that. If you think it's better to leave it super tight then I will run more rounds through them and go from there. I would really prefer not to send back my brand new expensive firearms. That rubs me the wrong way. I will if I need to get them right. But when I do the empty casing test for the extractor both are extremely tight and need to take my punch to release the casing. Sometimes both have a difficult time loading the first round into the chamber. But it's not limited to just that round. They have jammed on 1-8. Does the extractor have anything to do with this process or am I just spinning my wheels? Also when using the Wilson mags it seems to cut down on the number of fail to feed. I'm trying to gather as much info as I can so you guys can point me in the correct direction. Again this is the holiday season and I will not have time to get to the range until around Christmas, when I'm off of work and not traveling so much.

Thanks to all of you and I'm sure we can get these awesome pieces of hardware running right.

Roxie
 
#31 ·
I'm sure all you guys have guessed that I am a female. Going from the user name. I do have mechanical skills. But as for firearms I am fairly new. If you think the extractor is to heavy in tension I can adjust that.
w00t! I guessed right!

But I must hang my head in shame, because I automatically assumed that you would not be interested in tuning your gun. Usually, I'm not a sexist pig. Honest. If you've already tested your extractor and are willing to go bending on it, you've already rocketed to the top 10% of KimberTalk craftspeople.

Since it sounds like you've already made up your mind to break out the files, be sure to take some pictures and keep us informed of your project.
 
#28 ·
No. I don't think anyone guessed or even cared what gender you are and I know I would never assume male or female from someone's screen name.

It really doesn't make any difference. You will be treated the same here regardless of your sex.

I don't remember anyone asking, just to be certain, are you using 230gr FMJ hardball ammo?
 
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#30 ·
Roxie

The Wilson mags (at least the 47 series) for decades were the fix for many problem 1911s because they allowed the top round to sit higher and the feed lips were different.

Yes the extractor pays a role since the 1911 is controlled feed weapon. Too much tension or not enough distance between the breech face and inner surface of the hook will cause the process of feeding and chambering to stall. This is why many just put in a heavier recoil spring to hammer the cartridge through the process. It can work but just covers up the real issues and causes side effects elsewhere.

Not that there are not Kimbers or any other production brand that do not run all ammo with issue, but in my experience if things are not fit correctly, there is always the chance that one day you will encounter the issues. A reloader can work around most with the right bullet and case selection. I just speak from the standpoint that I want my pistols to run on all ammo that falls within SAMMI spec.

The bottom of the extractor hook needs correct beveling and polish to make the transition from the magazine feed lips to the extractor and breech face smooth. This is not addressed by most production makers. Kimber seems to consider it a drop in part.

They stress these absurd replacement schedules for recoil springs....because of the dependence of a strong spring to force the gun to feed, chamber and lock. Again, BS... ream the chamber correct, create enough leade, and tune the extractor.

Don't take this wrong as you state you are new to the game or at least the 1911 game. I will still buy another Kimber before I buy a SA or SW. But I have the tools to make the minor corrections needed. The SAs require much more work to make them what I want. I am time and money ahead with Kimber.
 
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