Micro 380 oil or grease on slide - Kimber Forum

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Old 10-27-2017, 11:16 AM   #1
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Micro 380 oil or grease on slide

My wife's 380 slide didn't cycle as smooth as my micro 9, after I've oiled and worked the slides by hand on both. I cleaned the slide and attempted to use grease instead of oil and noticed an immediate difference the slide seemed to cycle a lot smoother when cycled by hand. Now I'm starting to wonder if I should be using grease instead of oil? Want to know what's others experience or opinions on oil vs grease on the slide rail.
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:43 AM   #2
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grease will attract more dirt/powder ect
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:47 AM   #3
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Kimber says OIL, it's been suggested here that on a well broken in pistol grease is the way to go. I'd send some lead downrange to be sure there are no issues before trusting the grease? Some of the faithful have also suggested using toothpaste on the rails and manually cycling it a few hundred times to smooth out any roughness on a new pistol.
...be sure to post how things work out, good luck :-)
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Old 10-27-2017, 01:09 PM   #4
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I use grease on some guns and oil on others. Use whatever works. I recently switch from oil FP-10 to TW25B grease on my wife’s Remington 11-87 20 gauge semi auto shotgun and had great results. This gun always needed a little oil after 150 rounds. Not with the grease. I think we went to 275 rounds and had no issues.
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Old 10-27-2017, 03:57 PM   #5
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I can and will only speak on my personal preferences. I use grease. I use to use tetra gun grease but that got to be way too expensive. Then I remembered a trick a crusty old armorer showed while in the desert. He used high grade high temperature lithium grease. He mixed this grease with PL-S light weapons oil. That's what I use on the slide rails and locking lugs only. My micro 9 loves the hell out of it! Use the PL-S light weapons oil on every other moving part. I get great results, but that's just me.
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Old 10-27-2017, 04:17 PM   #6
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Former special forces then SWAT friend uses grease on his Ultra, hubby uses it on his Micro 9. Their theory is grease stays in place whereas oil will run off. I still use oil on my Micro 380. I don't "disbelieve" their theory but I've been using oil and until I see some evidence rather than just theory I'm in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset.
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Old 10-27-2017, 04:37 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ilPadrino View Post
My wife's 380 slide didn't cycle as smooth as my micro 9, after I've oiled and worked the slides by hand on both. I cleaned the slide and attempted to use grease instead of oil and noticed an immediate difference the slide seemed to cycle a lot smoother when cycled by hand. Now I'm starting to wonder if I should be using grease instead of oil? Want to know what's others experience or opinions on oil vs grease on the slide rail.
As has already been posted Kimber frowns on the use of grease on their guns. That said I use oil on all my guns except for the one I carry. I use oil my EDC Ultra Tactical and Brian Enos Slide Glide on the rails. I find that with the gun riding in a holster 16 hours a day especially in the summers heat the grease stays in place better then the oil.

There is something you can try if you want. Break the .380 down like you were going to clean it, get some white toothpaste, not gel and apply some to the rails of the gun. Reinstall the slide without the barrel and recoil spring then slowly work the slide back and forth about 100 times. Clean it up, oil and reassemble it, see how that feels, if it's still a little stiff repeat the process. If you see any shiny spots on the rails that's where the high spots were and what was causing the drag.
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:55 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Chuck43 View Post
As has already been posted Kimber frowns on the use of grease on their guns.

I'm pretty sure they take that position to discourage Wally and Gomer from packing up their 1911's with the same wheel bearing grease they used on Deputy Fife's Ford Galaxy.

I think grease is necessary, especially on a gun that gets carried, or brought out after sitting for a while. A finely tuned trigger should just get oil, as grease can add more drag to the moving parts. For rails, bolts, barrel bushings, can cam surfaces, THIN grease makes good sense. If it's too thick, grease will create excessive drag.

After your gun has been sitting in your nightstand or on your hip for a month or two, disassemble and check it out. Can you rub your finger on different parts and still feel lubrication? If not, that's bad. Take the gun out and blow a couple hundred rounds through it. Disassemble and feel the parts. Do you just feel powder residue? Bad. Do the parts still have lubrication on them? Good.

For the longest time I've been using Slide Glide, and I haven't been overly particular about gun oil. Life was good.

More recently, I've been experimenting with ALG Go-Juice (oil) because Bill Geissele, the God of Triggers, recommends it on his products. For grease, I've been using Lubriplate SFL-0. It's a very light bodied aluminum complex grease.

Here's a brief article on firearms lubrication that I found to offer some explanations without being overly complex.
Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com www.GrantCunningham.com
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:16 PM   #9
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Many many years ago I was told:
If it slides, grease it.
If it pivots, oil it.

This has worked well for me over these many years.

As a side note, I had a 1911 that would not go into battery on occasion. I completely stripped it and worked toothpaste on the slide while waching a show on tv. I then washed the frame and slide with soapy water and used compressed air to dry it. I lubricated and assembled according to my above rules. Hundreds of rounds later (and appropriate cleaning/lubricating as needed) it has not failed to go Into battery since.
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Last edited by DeOlMan; 10-27-2017 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Typo repair
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:29 AM   #10
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I tried some grease with moly lube, just a bit on the slide and some on the recoil spring and guide rod. The slide seems to rack a lot smoother by hand now. Going to try and wear it in to see if the moly lube penetrates into the pores of the metal, then I'll clean it out and switch back to using oil and see if it remains smooth.
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