08-05-2015, 11:03 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Beautiful Downtown Monroe, GA
The barrel should be all the way to the rear in the slide, with the locking lugs engaging the lock up slots milled into the slide. The recoil spring assembly should be placed all the way to the rear and up against the base of the barrel link. Once set up like this the slide can be installed on the frame, pulled back and the slide stop inserted through the frame and the link. Lock the slide to the rear and remove the disassembly tool. Then the slide can be released and the slide should then engage into battery under recoil spring tension.
The best possible answer to your issue is to replace the factory spring, guide rod and plug with a Wilson Combat Flat Wire Recoil Spring Kit. This little $50 gem allows for a no-tool disassembly of your pistol as well as the recoil spring lasting 10 times longer than a factory spring (rated at 800 rounds). I have one in my Pro Carry II and I wouldn't take a dozen factory springs in exchange for it. As for the L-shaped take down tool, I hung it on the wall at my work/gunsmithing bench. Every time it catches my eye, I chuckle at the fact that I no longer need it!!! If you are interested in the Wilson Flat Wire spring kit check out:
Wilson Combat Flat Wire Recoil Spring Kit 1911 Compact 4
The kit can be ordered through my close, person friend, Larry Potterfield, at MidwayUSA. ("Thanks for your business!")
Assemble as noted or replace the spring, which ever you choose, let us know how it works out for you.
The Lineman-Proud Army Dad!!
Obama called me a CLINGER! Terrorists call me an INFIDEL!
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Kimber Stainless Ultra Raptor II .45 ACP
Kimber Pro Carry II .45 ACP
NRA Member 45+ Years
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Last edited by Lineman; 08-05-2015 at 11:08 PM.