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Old 01-14-2018, 02:26 PM   #1
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The Broken Stone.

As you guys know, I've been doing some research on tantos, gladius designs and xiphos examples, plus the work of R.J. Knives. He researched the eliminating as many points of "drag" as he could from a blade tip.

I have several Ruger Compacts, one of them with both a kirinaga belly and tanto edge.

About this time I found I was using my 5K stone past a reasonable lifespan. Ken sent me the broken stone for free, but now it's leaving whisker marks. I got my "money" out of it, so I bought a new one from him.

Then I started thinking, dangerous for an ex-biker, besides it really hurts!

The stone is just about the width of the Ruger tanto edge. I'm going to leave the belly edge rough for slicing, but I'm going to polish the tanto edge. Yes, I will get a few whisker marks, but a 6K or 10K will take those out before polishing.

I really like this knife, and I can see why designs like this date back to 480 BC and Thermopylae. There are times to cut, and times to pierce. Besides, there's a slight flaw a bit in front of the ricasso on the right side belly bevel--that has to go!

If I fail, I have two more of these knives in stock...
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Old 01-15-2018, 12:32 PM   #2
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...all taped up, belly bevel inked, and flaws targeted...

001.JPG
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:02 AM   #3
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In another thread I mentioned the concept of "nibbling." A knife is a tool, and even a cheap knife deserves a long, useful life. I happen to think this Ruger Compact is very useful in my life, but it has flaws. It might take three or four polishes to remove the flaws, but I'll have the advantage of a useful tool for a long time.

The first picture shows that I am slowly straightening most of the right side of the blade from the choil forward, except for the last 1/2 inch--you can still see the black ink there. That black is an over grind from the factory. No metal needs to be removed from that area at this time.

While disappointing, it's in a good place. Over time I can "nibble" a bit from the belly bevel and some from the tanto bevel and correct the problem.

The second picture shows that the factory grinder did his job correctly. I had a bit to remove from the coil/ricasso area, but this was minor.

I will use the 140 Atoma once more to lightly remove the burr and switch to a black 220 Nubatama (as Ken suggested) to finish the edge. It will still slice, but also be good for bread and wet tomatoes.

There is also a slight grinding error on the right tanto tip--that issue is more serious for me. If I am going to create all the good features of a gladius or a xiphos, that edge must be straight, true, uniform and perhaps polished with diamond slurry.

Don't misunderstand my complaints. The knife is very good--the factory grind is the issue. I can fix that.

(BTW, both the knife and handle are black, so I'm thinking of naming the knife, "Kurobikari." If nothing else, it will make Ken laugh!)

001.JPG

002.JPG
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:31 PM   #4
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The more and more I looked at the grinding error, the more it irked me. However, it wasn't as big as the on Chuck's knife, so the "black brick" would have been overkill.

Since the error did not show on the left side, I took the knife and tipped it 45 degrees to the right. Then I lightly made a few passes on the 140 Atoma, just enough to even it up a bit. Then I soaked the Atoma and used a bit more muscle on the left side, and lighter passes on the right, flipping it numerous times.

Gradually, the left side stayed level, but it slowly "ate" the freshly thinned side of the right. The passes I made on the right were more to provide a cosmetic appearance.

I also made sure the 5/8 inch of shiny glint was getting smaller and smaller unti it faded out altogether.

Now, there still is part of the error on the top portion, which would technically be the top of the tanto shinogi line. Since I'm going to re-cut that section anyway to begin the polishing of that area, a few strokes with the 140 Atoma and the black 220 Nubatama might just take out 75% of the visual problem.

The edge is 'sharp' already, the polish will just provide a higher grit level. But then, that was the idea of the katana's point, and gladius' traditional "V" profile.
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:09 AM   #5
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I'm really loving this 220 black Nubatama stone Ken sold me. Just a couple of flips and the marks from the 140 Atoma disappear. The edge is sharp, and a tad rough, just like a good kirinaga edge should be.

It is a flat silver with no distinct features or shine, but it's made for slicing. The shine will have to come from the tanto edge. That's next.
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:06 AM   #6
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A little more shaping on that silly curve and I'll be just about done...

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Old 01-17-2018, 09:16 AM   #7
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Okay, now I feel better...

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Old 01-17-2018, 09:58 AM   #8
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What a difference a couple of strokes make, looks fantastic.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:37 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Chuck43 View Post
What a difference a couple of strokes make, looks fantastic.
Yup, and I cannot even figure out why they put a decorative curve in the same plane as the sharpeners next cut.

The blade blank is thick enough and does not need buttressing there. The design is clearly one of straight bevels, not curves.

Additionally, do they think that every Joe Lunchbox that buys their knives has the tools most polishers have?

This is a very sturdy, simple and functional knife that can do just about anything, and marketed at a very competitive price, I have three of them.

As for strength, there is almost no distal taper. Oh well, the fins on my dad's 1959 Plymouth didn't do anything either...

Edit: BTW, Chuck, I just put the 2000, 5000 and 15,000 grit polishing stones in for soaking. To paraphrase Top Gun, "I have a creed to bleed."
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Old 01-21-2018, 07:39 AM   #10
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Just started polishing the tanto bevel with a 10,000 grit stone. Only a few rocks left, then glass...

These are the times when I envision a smirking Ken Schwartz, calmly sipping a chilled Manischewitz, staring at his Lamborghini, and counting a wad of bills from Wisconsin...
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