Playing with Gun Parts

[RustyIron]

I like my HK USP 45C, carry it at times, and shoot it well. It has the LEM trigger, which is the greatest thing since rifled barrels. A couple months ago I had an opportunity to bag an HK45C, which is almost identical... almost. It had the V1 trigger (regular old SA or SA/DA with a decocker). I wanted to find out if I was missing anything.

I tried it... and... not so much.

The SA wasn't as slick as a 1911, and the SA/DA wasn't a Sig. But it fit my hand GREAT. The fit was better than the USP. HK's are like erector sets, you can switch parts and make it into anything you want. The LEM trigger kits were on backorder, so I stuck some Truglo's on it and waited.

And today was the day. Check out the accompanying pic. There's a lot of parts, and really, they still confuse me a bit. But it's done, and the trigger pull is a sweet 4.8 pounds.

I'm still waiting on a Milt Sparks for this gun, but my Galco OWB fits both the USP-C and HK45C. Ugh. Off the rack. Don't judge! I also have a Stealthgear IWB for the USP-C, but when inserting the HK45C, it pulls the slide back about 1/8". Not good enough.

I took the hot air gun to the kydex of the Stealthgear, near the muzzle end. When hot, I jammed the HK45C into it. It took several times, and then I rolled the edge of the kydex over to better protect the muzzle. Upon reassembly, the re-formed Stealthgear fits the HK45C perfectly. It also fits the USP-C perfectly. WIN!

Now all I need is the new Sparks holster, and all will be well in the world.

[LabMan]

My HK45C SA/DA is in my bedside bio-safe. It is my go to for CCW range work since it holds 10 rds with the extended mag. Simplifies reloads since we need to fire 10 rds from each position. I agree it fits just about as well as a 1911. Really like the HK's, have a 2000SK 9mm with the LEM trigger. You are 100% on the difference in the trigger's, I have thought about converting the 45C to the LEM and you have just convinced me to stop thinking about it and just do it.

[JC45]

Glad to hear everything went back together ok. I’ve heard about the LEM trigger but don’t know much about them, could you explain a little more about them ?

[RustyIron]

Originally Posted by JC45 Glad to hear everything went back together ok. I’ve heard about the LEM trigger but don’t know much about them, could you explain a little more about them ?

Imagine if a Colt 1911 and a Colt Python met at the Drunken Barn Dance, made love in the hay loft, and had a child that they named LEM.

The LEM is for a fighting weapon and probably not as important for a gun that just goes to the range for friendly shooting. To it's fanbase, the LEM takes the most desirable of all the trigger systems and rolls them all up into one. It's got a fairly light break (+/- 5 pounds) like a striker fired, but more crisp like a SA. Initial take-up is long, like a DA. It's unencumbered by safety contraptions of other systems. It's reliable and safe, like a hammer fired. And all the shots are the same, first to last, unlike DA/SA.

To ready an LEM, you rack the slide and chamber a round. You can ride the hammer as you holster the weapon. When you draw and acquire the target, the distance of the initial trigger take-up is almost as far as a DA. But the pressure on the trigger is light, about two pounds. You then hit a wall, and it takes almost five pounds to drop the hammer. Boom.

Trigger reset is longer than you'd see on a 1911 or a Glock, but not as far as a DA revolver. After the reset, there is still a bit of take-up until you hit the wall, and then you do it all over again.

When you're done shooting and you take your finger off the trigger, everything goes to it's initial state, you reholster the weapon, and you're ready to go again.

It's pretty easy to learn to shoot an LEM accurately and fast. Perhaps not as easy as SAO, but definitely moreso than DAO or DA/SA. Swapping over from one trigger system is a matter of installing different trigger parts. It's not so hard that an expert armorer is required, but a comfort of working with parts and pins and springs is required. The only tool required is a punch for pushing pins and a chopstick for aligning parts.

[JC45]

Thanks Rob, that was a great description. I get it now.