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Whether you do it the way you are talking about, or by shooting it, that’s part of the “break in”.
The way I do it not only saves on ammo initially.. but also from a psychological standpoint. Once a gun jams it's hard to trust it completely for an EDC.

After going thru a thorough slide racking routine I vett it by putting at least 200 trouble free rounds thru it before adding it to the rotation.
 

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The way I do it not only saves on ammo initially.. but also from a psychological standpoint. Once a gun jams it's hard to trust it completely for an EDC.
Interesting point, but I’ve never actually had a gun jam on me during first 200 rounds. AS LONG AS I did what I describe. Tear down, clean thoroughly, dry fire … multiple times. I generally do that daily for 7-10 days until I get out to the range.
 

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Interesting point, but I’ve never actually had a gun jam on me during first 200 rounds. AS LONG AS I did what I describe. Tear down, clean thoroughly, dry fire … multiple times. I generally do that daily for 7-10 days until I get out to the range.
Well, I take that back. The first M9 I was issued in 1989 stove piped on me (a fail to eject, not fail to feed @Steve in Allentown) in the first 50 rounds. I F’ing hate that gun.
 

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Well, I take that back. The first M9 I was issued in 1989 stove piped on me (a fail to eject, not fail to feed @Steve in Allentown) in the first 50 rounds. I F’ing hate that gun.
I never had the pleasure of dealing with the M9 but I heard from others that it sucked. Later on I learned that it's major malfunction was due to the specs for the magazine being changed by DOD against the manufacturer's advice.
 

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I never had the pleasure of dealing with the M9 but I heard from others that it sucked. Later on I learned that it's major malfunction was due to the specs for the magazine being changed by DOD against the manufacturer's advice.
Magazine was an issue, and likely what contributed to my experience. But it also had some flawed internal parts that had to be replaced/recalled.
 

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I'm still relatively new to the forum but have noticed a trend. I have recently purchased my first two Kimbers. A Warrior SOC (with 200 flawless rounds of Remington UMC 230 grain MC so far) and an Eclipse Custom II 10mm (which I haven't shot yet). I did a significant amount of due diligence before jumping in to my first purchase. Now I'm just flat hooked!

Anyway, I've notice so many questions and concerns from people who haven't gone through the basic break in process. Now don't get me wrong, I never ask for directions when I'm lost, but I do read the owners manual of every gun I purchase (I have a modestl gathering if guns).

Many of the Kimber criticisms I read about are from people with "friends" that have less than 500 rounds down range. With my limited experience I believe Kimber's tolerances are so tight they need the break in period. I've read many threads on this forum asking questions before the break in period.

To digress even more, when I picked up my Eclipse last week my local FFL told me they don't sell Kimber because he has too many problems. He told me too many people have FTE or FTF after just 150 or 200 rounds. I asked if he ever read the owners manual. He looked at me like I had three heads. At that point I wasn't going to argue with ignorance.

So.... I'd be curious to hear the seasoned Kimber owner's thoughts from this forum. Is it just me or is it a common problem? Do peiople assume they don't have to read the manual? Does Kimber need to do a better job of educating people? Does Kimber need to do a better job of educating their dealers? Does Kimber need to put a big red sticker (got that from a thread on this forum) that makes sure people know to "break in" their new machine?

Please give me your thoughts. The break in period seems to be more critical to Kimber than other manufacturers. If so, they need to market accordingly.

I'm not doing anything to my Kimbers before I run 500 rounds of MC through them. I've enjoyed learning from all of you and will continue to absorb your knowledge and experience. Kimber needs to spread Break In word in my opinion!

I agree that Kimber pistols require a 400 to 500 round breakin period... with thorough cleaning prior to first shot being fired and after each 100-150 rounds... also shoot it with the slide wet and slingshot load the first round of each magazine...
...if at some point, FTF and/or FTE issues come in clusters; call Kimber, nicely explain the issues, get the RMA and send it to Kimber, let them fix the issues, and get it back in 10 days or so; then do the above until brokein....

just mho...
 

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I'm very happy to say, I have never had an issue with any of five Kimbers.

With most 1911's, I feel they come with too strong a recoil spring. I clean them, rack them until they feel smooth, shoot and leave them set with the slide racked back for the first month or so.

I change the spring wt up or down until the arch of the ejected case is consistant at about three to four feet.

If your shooting light loads reduce the spring wt. Shooting +P's increase the spring wt. No one recoil spring works with all loads.

Wilson sells a kit of various wt springs in a roll up bag. Play with the spring wt.

This is important with most semi auto pistols. You can tune a Glock the same way.

Ejected cases need to reliably clear your shoulder, not eject to infinity & beyond!

Early Hi Powers used to eject straight backwards into your face if the recoil spring was too strong...

I bet 80% of the Micro 9 issues could be fixed with a lighter recoil spring.
 

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I'm very happy to say, I have never had an issue with any of five Kimbers.
I’ve not had an issue with my one Kimber. I smacked the haters around :)
With most 1911's, I feel they come with too strong a recoil spring. I clean them, rack them until they feel smooth, shoot and leave them set with the slide racked back for the first month or so.
Uhhhhhh, I’ve owned many 1911’s plus shot many in the Army. I don’t understand this at all. Plus, keeping the slide racked back … springs are not impacted by being open or closed, but by being exercised.
I change the spring wt up or down until the arch of the ejected case is consistant at about three to four feet.
How do you do this? By changing springs? I just deleted some of your comments cause I don’t get it.
This is important with most semi auto pistols. You can tune a Glock the same way.
Single action hammer fired and striker fired are quite different. comparing how to tune a 1911 and a Glock …. Hmmmm. Okay
 
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I'm very happy to say, I have never had an issue with any of five Kimbers.

With most 1911's, I feel they come with too strong a recoil spring. I clean them, rack them until they feel smooth, shoot and leave them set with the slide racked back for the first month or so.

I change the spring wt up or down until the arch of the ejected case is consistant at about three to four feet.

If your shooting light loads reduce the spring wt. Shooting +P's increase the spring wt. No one recoil spring works with all loads.

Wilson sells a kit of various wt springs in a roll up bag. Play with the spring wt.

This is important with most semi auto pistols. You can tune a Glock the same way.

Ejected cases need to reliably clear your shoulder, not eject to infinity & beyond!

Early Hi Powers used to eject straight backwards into your face if the recoil spring was too strong...

I bet 80% of the Micro 9 issues could be fixed with a lighter recoil spring.
It's not the recoil spring.
1911s are designed with internals that need to be either hand fitted, or worked to smooth out the mated parts.
That's why some require a bit of breaking in.
It is inherent of the design.
A Glock is a completely different animal.
Like comparing apples to a potato.
 
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