But I said I would not do this again...
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Was it smooth to start with? Is that steel or aluminum? It looks very bright...will it be finished with a color?
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11,768 Posts
Nice. What gun is that on?
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It's actually a Smith&Wesson that a friend owns.
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Yes alloy frames can be checkered. If anodized it is best to strip it first since it will be acid dipped prior to re anodizing which may dull the points. 20 line per inch on alloy would make it pretty susceptible to damage/ bending due to the height of the point. Some I have seen were 25 lpi. If the frame was being Ceracoated the bead blasting should suffice.
Most alloy frames are done in 30 lpi for that reason and due to the thickness and strengths of the frontstrap in the valley of the checkering. Aluminum also tends to gum up hand files terribly. I was taught to never use stones or files on brass and aluminum. I have not done any alloy frames and think most people will only machine cut them but I may be wrong.
Hopefully this is my last as I plan to get a mill soon and will try my hand at machine cutting and some other patterns. I have a new in the box stainless Custom II waiting as a project gun. I wanted to start with a base model.
As far as hand checkering I would say I put in 8-12 hours on one depending on the borders, height and if the trigger guard radius is reduced and cut higher. I am sure there are those that do it much faster.
Most alloy frames are done in 30 lpi for that reason and due to the thickness and strengths of the frontstrap in the valley of the checkering. Aluminum also tends to gum up hand files terribly. I was taught to never use stones or files on brass and aluminum. I have not done any alloy frames and think most people will only machine cut them but I may be wrong.
Hopefully this is my last as I plan to get a mill soon and will try my hand at machine cutting and some other patterns. I have a new in the box stainless Custom II waiting as a project gun. I wanted to start with a base model.
As far as hand checkering I would say I put in 8-12 hours on one depending on the borders, height and if the trigger guard radius is reduced and cut higher. I am sure there are those that do it much faster.
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42,300 Posts
Mike, I'd love to have a friend like you........ buddy.
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5,295 Posts
Thanks for answering my question. You very knowledgeable and talented.
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Thanks but not really. I am constantly learning. You have be willing to trash parts parts and make mistakes. At times costly mistakes along the way. If it weren't for the joy of doing it and the pride of saying you did it yourself; for most it's cheaper to have it done than to pay for the tools to do just one or two guns.All I can say is that the Lineman stands in awe of your skill!!! You ARE a craftsman!!!
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62 Posts
I have great respect for your work! That is very tedious and hard on the eyes! Years ago I bought the file and did a Makarov...then sold the file! It takes patience and attention to detail that I did not have! It took weeks to do the Mak frame! Congragulations on a well done project!
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869 Posts
Mike, curious about the type of acid we're talking about.
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Depends on the anodize provider. Sulfuric, phosphoric and others. Lots of info available about the process and the three types or classifications of anodizing.
What I know I have learned from a couple local manufacturers of AR15 receivers.
The anodizing provider may have options or methods to minimize the issue. I have not had the need to make the inquiries.
What I know I have learned from a couple local manufacturers of AR15 receivers.
The anodizing provider may have options or methods to minimize the issue. I have not had the need to make the inquiries.
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