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So after being a .45ACP guy my whole life, I got the proverbial wild hair and bought two great carry micro 9's for a little more ease of daily use. Hah! I did get an indoctrination into the small Kimber community. A host of problems are endemic to this platform.
1- FTF, polish ramp, slide and frame rails, barrel inside the slide.
2-FTE, placed some pre-tension on the extractor plus round the bottom corner and groove areas.
3-Light primer strikes. It would act normal for a mag or two then begin the light primer strike dance. After trying way too many ways to fix the issue, I noticed scads of brass shavings both in the firing pin bore and under the slide. It was on Kimber failed to chamfer the firing pin hole at the breach face. It is square/sharp and shaves brass off of every round fired. (effecting the many FTF issues by adding pin friction.) Bevel the hole. It began hitting like a champ...
4-Terrible 3 phase trigger pull. The first stage is when the trigger bar presses on the lower part of the ejector, releasing the wonderful primer block safety. The second phase is minutely rotating the sear until....3rd phase the sear allows the hammer to fall. Long bumpy and not up to my standards. NOTE: I don't recommend these mods to anyone. I am just relating what I did to get a 1911 feel trigger.
A- Ruby stone the hammer lugs, ruby stone the sear to hammer surface. Polish the sear pin. Polish the top of the ejector where it rides under the slide.
B-Remove the firing pin safety completely. (I have used and carried 1911 pistols for over 50 years with no incidents)
C-Cut back the lower of the ejector to match the sear front surface, as it no longer needs to release the pin block.(Done so Ejector and sear front faces are even when at rest)
D-Remove some of the HUGE trigger pre-travel (take up) Drill a small 1/16" hole at the top/front edge of the aluminum trigger where it ducks under the frame cut out. Epoxy a Very small screw in the hole leaving a bump where the trigger rests on it's forward direction. To fit this, you need to file off some thickness of the screw head to the trigger to allow the trigger to move forward until the trigger bar can click up into engagement with the sear. Then file some more to give it some trigger take up.
5-Never use a trigger stop screw to limit the rear travel like you would do in a 1911. When not enough trigger bar overtravel is present, the upward pressure of the trigger bar will re-engage the sear and trip the hammer again....It will keep doing that until you remove your finger or the magazine is empty in 3/4 of a second. (Don't ask how I know that.) 6-When using 7 or 8 round extended magazines and where the pinky rests on the magazine rubber pad, after two to three shots the magazine will fall out of the gun. Too much wiggle room in the mag well allowing the steady finger pressure to "cam" over the mag release. I stretched the release spring a little and it seemed to stop. But I also placed three layers of foil tape along the square back of each magazine to take up a ton of the extra space. Mags still fall free when released normally. On a 1911 the mags are flush as a rule so there is no finger pressure and the mag wells are a perfect fit and this was never a problem.

Well for now, that is it. If this was entertaining, I will keep it up to date as I put rounds down range.
 

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Good information for Micro9 owners but the corrective measures will be above most owners DIY skill level...
 

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Some excellent tips for the more skilled members here. Good info, thanks for posting your experience with the little blaster.

My Micro 9 in a fairly early example, and displayed none of the maladies listed above, thankfully. Guess I lucked out on this one. I'm also a lifetime 1911 .45 carrier, but carry my Micro when conditions preclude carrying one of my Ultra's.
 

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Good information! I must be lucky because I've purchased 3 Micro 9's and they've all run great with no issues. Other than a finish problem on my Rapide which Kimber corrected, I'm very satisfied. I will certainly catalog this info for future reference.
 

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Man.. so much trouble..
I either send it back to kimber and let them deal with it ..
or throw it away And buy another one .. 😀
 

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NOTE: I don't recommend these mods to anyone.
Oh, how I long for the good old days when a man was expected to know his limitations, disclaimers were not needed, and blame was placed solely on the dummy who didn't know what he was doing.

I like your "take-up" solution. Never thought of that. And I don't really understand the part about fixing the ejector to match the sear. No worries. Maybe later I'll pull a Micro-style out of the Bucket 'O Guns and see if I can figure it out.

Thanks.
 

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So after being a .45ACP guy my whole life, I got the proverbial wild hair and bought two great carry micro 9's for a little more ease of daily use. Hah! I did get an indoctrination into the small Kimber community. A host of problems are endemic to this platform.
1- FTF, polish ramp, slide and frame rails, barrel inside the slide.
2-FTE, placed some pre-tension on the extractor plus round the bottom corner and groove areas.
3-Light primer strikes. It would act normal for a mag or two then begin the light primer strike dance. After trying way too many ways to fix the issue, I noticed scads of brass shavings both in the firing pin bore and under the slide. It was on Kimber failed to chamfer the firing pin hole at the breach face. It is square/sharp and shaves brass off of every round fired. (effecting the many FTF issues by adding pin friction.) Bevel the hole. It began hitting like a champ...
4-Terrible 3 phase trigger pull. The first stage is when the trigger bar presses on the lower part of the ejector, releasing the wonderful primer block safety. The second phase is minutely rotating the sear until....3rd phase the sear allows the hammer to fall. Long bumpy and not up to my standards. NOTE: I don't recommend these mods to anyone. I am just relating what I did to get a 1911 feel trigger.
A- Ruby stone the hammer lugs, ruby stone the sear to hammer surface. Polish the sear pin. Polish the top of the ejector where it rides under the slide.
B-Remove the firing pin safety completely. (I have used and carried 1911 pistols for over 50 years with no incidents)
C-Cut back the lower of the ejector to match the sear front surface, as it no longer needs to release the pin block.(Done so Ejector and sear front faces are even when at rest)
D-Remove some of the HUGE trigger pre-travel (take up) Drill a small 1/16" hole at the top/front edge of the aluminum trigger where it ducks under the frame cut out. Epoxy a Very small screw in the hole leaving a bump where the trigger rests on it's forward direction. To fit this, you need to file off some thickness of the screw head to the trigger to allow the trigger to move forward until the trigger bar can click up into engagement with the sear. Then file some more to give it some trigger take up.
5-Never use a trigger stop screw to limit the rear travel like you would do in a 1911. When not enough trigger bar overtravel is present, the upward pressure of the trigger bar will re-engage the sear and trip the hammer again....It will keep doing that until you remove your finger or the magazine is empty in 3/4 of a second. (Don't ask how I know that.) 6-When using 7 or 8 round extended magazines and where the pinky rests on the magazine rubber pad, after two to three shots the magazine will fall out of the gun. Too much wiggle room in the mag well allowing the steady finger pressure to "cam" over the mag release. I stretched the release spring a little and it seemed to stop. But I also placed three layers of foil tape along the square back of each magazine to take up a ton of the extra space. Mags still fall free when released normally. On a 1911 the mags are flush as a rule so there is no finger pressure and the mag wells are a perfect fit and this was never a problem.

Well for now, that is it. If this was entertaining, I will keep it up to date as I put rounds down range.
Yes micros seem to be very problematic. I had a micro Rapide had issue with mag falling out. Sent it back to Kimber problem fixed & I sold it the next day. Picked up an Ultra Carry 9 mm which runs like a Champ.
 

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My micro 9 is app. five years old and has run flawlessly since day one. LGS got a new stock of em in a couple weeks ago, so naturally I had to handle some of them! The main thing I noticed was that the new ones seemed to have a MUCH heavier trigger pull, and not as crisp! Hoping that Kimber hasn’t fallen victim to the litigation fears that we see so often! I do know I wouldn’t trade my old one for three of these fresh ones!
 

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Sorry yours was a project! The wife bought one about three years ago--no such problems. Only challenge for me was the ambi safety getting bumped to "on" by my strong-hand knuckle. 'Worked just fine for her hands. I liked hers so much I got one without the offending finger flapper and it's worked just fine for me.
 
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