Kimber Talk Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Cummins
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. First post on here and wish it was under better circumstances.
But I just purchase my first
Kimber and it’s for my boys first hunting rifle. a I am having some chambering issues.
Went to start a load and wanted to measure where the lands are. But I could not get any cases To go in.
Tried few Different resized cassings/reloads.
Once fired Nosler brass my buddy gave me from his Christensen, 2 or 3 times reload I have for my tikka and brand new factory 140gr S&B PSP.
I could not get the re loads/ resized brass in, i got the bolt closed 95-99%. But could not close the bolt.You can see where it’s binding up towards the back of the casing.
I got the new S&B to chamber but it also left a mark on the casing similar To others.
It’s scratching and gouging the brass pretty good too.
Here are some pics
126765

126766
126767
 

·
Registered
Cummins
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So is this acceptable around here by you kimber guys?
I guess Kimber roulette is really true then
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
38,881 Posts
I'd respectfully ask you to hang in there for a day or two, we have a few serious Kimber rifle men on the forum, but for the most part we are mostly handgun owners.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Oklahomabound

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
I would hope, from what the above pictures show, you would already have already contacted Kimber CS. If not, give them a call - they're good people.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,348 Posts
Rick will be one member that can offer suggestions...he is probably out in the desert shooting his rifles.
Steve also has Expert advice.
Have you tried to chamber a different NEW ammo? I am no expert but looks like burrs in chamber.
I have four Kimber rifles (none 6.5) and not the Hunter model but mine are smooth as glass but I've only used new factory ammo...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Oklahomabound

·
Registered
Cummins
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks
I called kimber yesterday and it took about 15 minutes of arguing with Jeff for him to ask for my serial number, but I forgot it at home.
But basically they are saying that they don’t recommend reloads, only new premium factory ammo. And They have very strict tolerances.

called back today and Tyler was much easer to work with. Besides the fact they both try to tell me how brass is softer than steel and it can scratch.
Sent pics around 9 am, no answer yet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,348 Posts
Be nice. Don't argue, be nice. Clearly stated in the manual "no reloads." Probably should not have said you was using reloaded ammo! I would skip using any reloads until the issue is sorted out.
Have you inspected chamber?
 

·
Registered
Cummins
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I’m trying to keep my cool.
So I Sent those pics to kimber and Tyler called me back.
He is saying those marks are normal with their mouser type action .
I told them I’m not happy or satisfied with this,
So he’s going to send the pics to his master gun smith and see if they can do A custom polish on the chamber.
Am I asking for too much or my expectations unrealistic to have higher end rifle to have no problems out of the box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
No Dre, I don't think you are being unrealistic with your expectations for a higher-end rifle.

My suggestion would be to try and purchase some nickle plated cartridge rounds, to see if the same marks occur. Brass is soft and marks easily. Perhaps you do have a burr or two that needs to be removed, but I'm not a gunsmith, so that's just a guess on my part.

I shoot Sig Sauer's Elite Hunter in my rifle [also a Kimber Hunter] - 6.5 Creedmoor, 130GR, Elite Hunter Tipped Those babies slide into my rifle's chamber like dry lubricant [Teflon] had been sprayed on them. The other ammunition I use is Hornady's Precision Hunter... and they are a tad more finiky to quickly chamber verses the Sig ammo. Especially if I get excited and need a follow up shot.

I have never fired reloads in my rifle, so I don't know what else to offer other than stick to new boxed ammunition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,185 Posts
From all I've read here on this post, and after having the same problem a few times over the years, I'll surmise that you (the OP) should 'bump' the shoulder on those cases that are not chambering properly. Brass stretches and after firing and re-sizing, chances are the shoulder has moved forward. This is true even more in cases fired in another rifle being used in yours.

I use Redding bushing dies in all my rifle cartridges, along with a body die for bumping the shoulder back once it's moved forward and prevents chambering. This is a common issue, and certainly does not warrant sending the rifle back to the Mothership. It is easly addressed in the loading room with the proper tools, dies, and measuring tools. I use a Mitutoyo .0001" caliber with the Hornady comparator tool to determine proper headspace. Once those cases have been bumped about .001" - .002", the problem will disappear.
 

·
Registered
Cummins
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks.
Kimber got back to me and is having me send the rifle back to got a chamber polish job.
Glad to see them stand behind their product and I’m Hoping for the best.
my reloads have been used in my buddies Bergara and others Christensen Arms and my Tikka with 0 issues and no scratches like this.
My cz in 76239 doesn’t scratch the cheap aluminum casings like this rifle.
I’ll keep you posted
 

·
Registered
Cummins
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From all I've read here on this post, and after having the same problem a few times over the years, I'll surmise that you (the OP) should 'bump' the shoulder on those cases that are not chambering properly. Brass stretches and after firing and re-sizing, chances are the shoulder has moved forward. This is true even more in cases fired in another rifle being used in yours.

I use Redding bushing dies in all my rifle cartridges, along with a body die for bumping the shoulder back once it's moved forward and prevents chambering. This is a common issue, and certainly does not warrant sending the rifle back to the Mothership. It is easly addressed in the loading room with the proper tools, dies, and measuring tools. I use a Mitutoyo .0001" caliber with the Hornady comparator tool to determine proper headspace. Once those cases have been bumped about .001" - .002", the problem will disappear.
I have the Hornady comparator and factory measure. 1.528, reloads 1.530.
I don’t think it was the head space, if you look at the pictures, you can see where the marks are on the casings . Factory or reloads
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top