Striker yes, hammer no. Within practical limits of course. A little dab will do ya. An excess of lubrication does not work better than enough. It's a gun, not a cutting tool.
The biggest rookie mistake I have witnessed besides overdoing it is using oil where grease should be and vice versa. I attended Glock Armorer courses just for grins when I lived in GA and the instructors said the same thing. High temp grease stays put, oil doesn't.
The worst problem from too much lubricant is fouling the striker and the surrounding channel/guide.
With any striker pistol... never put or let oil get in there.
I was taught to run 1911s and Sigs (metal) wet. Beretta's (92) damp. Wet doesn't mean dripping. Here are my rule(s) of thumb:
1. grease on the slides.
2. a light film of oil on pivot pins, springs, and various fire control surfaces that rub
Gun lube and cleaning products are snake oil. That $15 tiny 4 oz bottle or tube of the best lubricant ever, used by Navy Seals, approved by the Joint Chiefs of Staff, Marine Corps colonels, and God himself is BS. Most of the time, it's repackaged turbine oil or transmission fluid. Or in some cases synthetic motor oil. The sellers buy this stuff in 55-gallon drums, pour it into little bottles, and charge you out the gazoo for it. It's all marketing. The non-toxic variety that is allegedly safe to handle and doesn't contain stinky petroleum or other cancer-causing solvents ... are mostly plant-based products that were developed for lubricating machinery in food processing. Vegetable or seed oils. For example, Froglube is coconut oil.
In conclusion, I sometimes tell a chatty know-it-all at the range to mind his own beeswax. I don't go there to make new friends or receive unsolicited advice. On occasion, I use different words you aren't supposed to say here.
