gotta looking at my sear to hammer face because it just didn't feel like my other 1911's. It was a perfectly flat face to face fit,(neutral)which I expected because that was the method used that I'd read about and never cared for.Then one day I read that it should have an angle thats negative for a lighter trigger pull and still safe...which when u look at the sears face the top leading edge overhangs or extends slightly past the leading edge of it's lower face edge up against the hammer forks.All my other 1911's are factory done this way and have a nicer trigger pull....so I changed my Kimber sear face a few degrees and it's much better now, not quite as good as my S/A or S&W E series but acceptable...measures 3 lbs. 12 ozs.
PC II 9mm SEAR
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11,768 Posts
3:12 seems light enough, especially if it is crisp.
I'm not versed enough on firearms to attempt such changes. I suppose buying a new sear, if one screws up, isn't that big a deal.
I'm not versed enough on firearms to attempt such changes. I suppose buying a new sear, if one screws up, isn't that big a deal.
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6,294 Posts
Way above my pay grade.
ask me y I've bought replacement sears before....I haven't actually destroyed a sear but was in fear of it while learning...ordered couple Wilson bullet proof and they do need fitting cause they r made bigger than necessary...they have a 36 tho. face up against 20 tho. hammer hooks and the safety bar contact area needs to b filed down to engage ur safety. they also sell a regular sear thats drop in as well... Midway has them and others make really good drop in's that r the right fit. I spent a lot of time on my Wilson Bullet Proof sear in my Rock Isl. 9mm and got it down to 2 lb. 12 ozs....don't want that for every gun thou
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