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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought the gun today and can't seem to figure out why it won't feed. Every round hangs up-no matter how many I have in the mag or what place in the mag it is. I haven't even fired the gun yet. Frustrated to say the least.


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Welcome to the site from Tennessee.


Do they make FMJ 10mm ammo? I would try something besides those ash tray size hollow points!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks 2sharp. I’m thinking the same thing after looking further. I’ll see what else I can dig up.


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Thanks 2sharp. I'm thinking the same thing after looking further. I'll see what else I can dig up.

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Also a good possibility the chamber did not get a finishing ream from the factory?
 
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Gold dots? Maybe Rangers? my Eclipse Ultra would not chamber those for 350 rounds. Once broke it it hasn’t been a problem. Ran everything else fine but hung up on every gold dot. Try some Golden Sabres and FMJ to break it in first.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gold dots? Maybe Rangers? my Eclipse Ultra would not chamber those for 350 rounds. Once broke it it hasn't been a problem. Ran everything else fine but hung up on every gold dot. Try some Golden Sabres and FMJ to break it in first.

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Will do! Thank you!

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Try some good ole round nose FMJ.. check your feed ramp and maybe even some polish on it.. load your mag and slingshot it home..take it to the range
 

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Let's see if we can diagnose the problem by running three simple tests. These tests cover most of the possibilities. There are other more complex things that could be wrong such as an incorrect feed ramp angle that are not as easily diagnosed and would require accurate measurements to determine.

The first test is the "plunk test"

  1. Remove the barrel
  2. Hold the barrel vertically with the chamber up and the muzzle down
  3. Drop a factory round into the barrel. When the brass case mouth impacts the steel chamber ledge a distinctive sound will be made - the plunk
  4. Push the cartridge as far forward into the chamber as it will go and while maintaining forward pressure on the cartridge rotate it. It should rotate easily.

If it does not rotate easily or if it will not freely drop out of the barrel under its own weight, the barrel should be returned to the manufacturer to be finish reamed as @2sharp2 suggested

Next is the extractor test

  1. Remove the extractor
  2. Lock the slide open
  3. Seat a fully loaded magazine
  4. Allow the slide to move forward at full speed by pushing down on the slide stop

If the first round out of the mag feeds fine, the extractor is the problem. It has incorrect geometry, too much deflection, too much tension, or all three. The extractor can be correctly fit using a couple of inexpensive tools and the knowledge of how to do it.

If the first round out of the mag does not feed, the extractor is not the problem.

Keep in mind that you're using live ammo for this test. If you want to avoid an unintentional loud noise followed by a .40 caliber hole in something, you can remove the firing pin before conducting this test.

Poorly fit extractors are common across most 1911 manufacturers.

The magazine height test

  1. Lock the slide open
  2. Seat a fully loaded magazine
  3. While forcefully pushing upward on the magazine push down on the slide stop to release the slide to come forward at full speed

If the first round out of the mag feeds okay, replace the OEM magazine catch with an EGW Higher mag catch. This mag catch holds the magazine slightly higher and enhances feeding. FWIW, I put these EGW mag catches in nearly every 1911 that crosses my bench simply because it makes feeding smoother.
 

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Steve, I love your excellent detailed trouble shooting posts.
 

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Let's see if we can diagnose the problem by running three simple tests. These tests cover most of the possibilities. There are other more complex things that could be wrong such as an incorrect feed ramp angle that are not as easily diagnosed and would require accurate measurements to determine.

The first test is the "plunk test"

  1. Remove the barrel
  2. Hold the barrel vertically with the chamber up and the muzzle down
  3. Drop a factory round into the barrel. When the brass case mouth impacts the steel chamber ledge a distinctive sound will be made - the plunk
  4. Push the cartridge as far forward into the chamber as it will go and while maintaining forward pressure on the cartridge rotate it. It should rotate easily.

If it does not rotate easily or if it will not freely drop out of the barrel under its own weight, the barrel should be returned to the manufacturer to be finish reamed as @2sharp2 suggested

Next is the extractor test

  1. Remove the extractor
  2. Lock the slide open
  3. Seat a fully loaded magazine
  4. Allow the slide to move forward at full speed by pushing down on the slide stop

If the first round out of the mag feeds fine, the extractor is the problem. It has incorrect geometry, too much deflection, too much tension, or all three. The extractor can be correctly fit using a couple of inexpensive tools and the knowledge of how to do it.

If the first round out of the mag does not feed, the extractor is not the problem.

Keep in mind that you're using live ammo for this test. If you want to avoid an unintentional loud noise followed by a .40 caliber hole in something, you can remove the firing pin before conducting this test.

Poorly fit extractors are common across most 1911 manufacturers.

The magazine height test

  1. Lock the slide open
  2. Seat a fully loaded magazine
  3. While forcefully pushing upward on the magazine push down on the slide stop to release the slide to come forward at full speed

If the first round out of the mag feeds okay, replace the OEM magazine catch with an EGW Higher mag catch. This mag catch holds the magazine slightly higher and enhances feeding. FWIW, I put these EGW mag catches in nearly every 1911 that crosses my bench simply because it makes feeding smoother.
Man thats awesome. I'll certainly keep this for info. Thanks a bunch.
 

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Bought the gun today and can't seem to figure out why it won't feed. Every round hangs up-no matter how many I have in the mag or what place in the mag it is. I haven't even fired the gun yet. Frustrated to say the least.


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Might be a dumb question but did you break it down clean a the factory lube off of it really well and then oil it real good with quality oil?
 

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I recently had a problem with a 1911 feeding a .45 ACP hollow point bullet. I had seated the bullets to an OAL of 1.155" and that was too short. Trying to chamber the first round caused the cartridge to nosedive into the feed ramp.

Increasing the OAL to 1.185" solved the problem; no more failures to feed. Your rounds look a bit short but it's hard to tell.
 

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I suggest that you actually fire the gun before you do anything to it. Might not be anything wrong with it. If it does it when live firing I would call Kimber and they will make it right.
 

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I agree with Steve as usual. But this is not a feeding issue as most will say. Understanding the 8 steps in the cycle of operation help narrow down where the issue is.

The picture shows the round is no longer in control of the feed lips of the mag. The ramps and type of projectile are not the issue as the projectile has passed those and passed into the chamber. Chambering is the issue....

Maybe a recent change but of all the Kimbers I have ever worked on they lack distance between the breachface and inner claw surface of the extractor which creates this stoppage. Tension and deflection may also be a cause. Tapered feeler gauges will measure this.
 

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Another question, are these hand loads and have they been ran through a sizing crimp die? If the chamber is on the low tolerance they might not chamber unless their sized at finish.
If factory FMJ functions, and Golden Sabres (chamber in most cases that others don’t). Could be the rounds. Hanging on every single round points me to the ammo. Obviously it was shot tested before sold.


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. . . all the Kimbers I have ever worked on they lack distance between the breachface and inner claw surface of the extractor which creates this stoppage. Tension and deflection may also be a cause.
For 10mm I like the hook-to-breechface distance to be .065". What do you like, Mike?

Regardless of caliber I try to hit exactly .010" of deflection. If I err, I err on the side of less deflection.

Here's a link on extractor fitting that may be of interest: LINK
 
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