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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I also took the Super Carry Pro HD to the range today. Frustrated to report that the new recoil spring DID NOT fix the problem.

Sorry Chuck43 - you don't get to say 'told you so' about the recoil spring.

It cycles perfectly, no ejection problems - so at least I have that to be happy with, BUT still doesn't want to feed the first round of a full magazine fully into the chamber. Doesn't matter which mag I use (Kimber or Wilson Combat), doesn't matter what brand of ammo I use. The only way it will feed the first round properly is if I only load 5 rounds into the mag.

Had one of the workers at LGS tell me that's a really common problem with a lot of guns from all different manufacturers & the best solution is to just carry a less than full mag - as well as a 2nd less-than-full mag as back up. :eek::eek:

Sorry, but I'm not OK with that answer for any defensive gun, but especially not for one I paid over $1600 for!!

I'll call Kimber tomorrow & let you all know what they say.
 

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I also took the Super Carry Pro HD to the range today. Frustrated to report that the new recoil spring DID NOT fix the problem.

Sorry Chuck43 - you don't get to say 'told you so' about the recoil spring.

It cycles perfectly, no ejection problems - so at least I have that to be happy with, BUT still doesn't want to feed the first round of a full magazine fully into the chamber. Doesn't matter which mag I use (Kimber or Wilson Combat), doesn't matter what brand of ammo I use. The only way it will feed the first round properly is if I only load 5 rounds into the mag.

Had one of the workers at LGS tell me that's a really common problem with a lot of guns from all different manufacturers & the best solution is to just carry a less than full mag - as well as a 2nd less-than-full mag as back up. :eek::eek:

Sorry, but I'm not OK with that answer for any defensive gun, but especially not for one I paid over $1600 for!!

I'll call Kimber tomorrow & let you all know what they say.
Sorry to hear you are still having problems. The guy at the LGS needs to find a different job, he definitely doesn't know anything about firearms. And....I agree, call Kimber, they will make it right!
 

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Darn I was looking forward to saying "told you so", LOL. How could anybody working in a gun store give a customer an answer like that? Call Kimber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry to hear you are still having problems. The guy at the LGS needs to find a different job, he definitely doesn't know anything about firearms. And....I agree, call Kimber, they will make it right!
Darn I was looking forward to saying "told you so", LOL. How could anybody working in a gun store give a customer an answer like that? Call Kimber.
Thanks for the support! I was pretty shocked myself - I thought he was joking at first! He's worked there for several years & usu has great advice. We both enjoy chatting with him during our visits, but I won't be asking his advice again! :(
 

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You are correct by going straight to the source so to speak. Hopefully Kimber will give you sound advice to resolve the issue. I had issues with my Super Scary Ultra Plus, and I took it to a reputable gunsmith. He resolved the issues after two trips. The advice you received from the LGS was kind of like the doctor saying if it hurts when you do that...don't do that???
 

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I posted a "like" on your post, not because I liked your problems but because I was agreeing with you.

Sounds like the recoil spring is a bit under strength. Does it do the same thing when hubby shoots it?
 

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Is the rim under the extractor and the cartridge started in the chamber? Or is the rim under the extractor and cartridge in the chamber and level in line with bore but failing to fully return to battery and lock?
 

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Call Kimber!!

The appropriate action is to contact the Kimber Customer Service Dept. However, in the mean time, check out the feed ramp! Is it polished smooth or are there machining marks on it? After changing the recoil spring, using various magazines and types of ammo, I am left only with that possibility. If it is rough it is definitely a job for Kimber.

We all know that they will make it right!!! Soooo..... make the call, sit back and let them do what they do best!!!! :D:D:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is the rim under the extractor and the cartridge started in the chamber? Or is the rim under the extractor and cartridge in the chamber and level in line with bore but failing to fully return to battery and lock?
Cartridge is not fully in the chamber - sits at a slight angle. I can usually bump the slide forward & from there the gun functions perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I posted a "like" on your post, not because I liked your problems but because I was agreeing with you.

Sounds like the recoil spring is a bit under strength. Does it do the same thing when hubby shoots it?
The new recoil spring Kimber sent was longer than the original one, but I did have over 600 rounds on the original spring.

Gun does the same thing regardless of who shoots it - that was my first thought, so started asking hubby & a select few others try it.

I'm frustrated with it right now, but not completely disgusted yet - I have faith that Kimber will do whatever is needed to make it right.

I like the gun enough to have already bought another one!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The appropriate action is to contact the Kimber Customer Service Dept. However, in the mean time, check out the feed ramp! Is it polished smooth or are there machining marks on it? After changing the recoil spring, using various magazines and types of ammo, I am left only with that possibility. If it is rough it is definitely a job for Kimber.

We all know that they will make it right!!! Soooo..... make the call, sit back and let them do what they do best!!!! :D:D:D
I'm not an expert, but the feed ramp doesn't look as polished as I think it should. When I spoke with Kimber a couple weeks ago, they indicated that if the new recoil spring didn't fix the problem they would likely want the gun back to look at it, so that's what I expect they will tell me tomorrow.

I apologize for the gun being dirty in this pic, but I did do a superficial cleaning of the ramp & end of the barrel to see what you think.
 

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That ramp does not appear to be bad. They do not need to be a mirror. I would like to see a photo of the stoppage as it occurs. We could learn more. Many will call a failure to chamber and a failure to lock a failure to feed. And each of these is a different stoppage that have different causes.

Once the round has past the control of the feed lips of the mag; and begun its movement up the breech feeding is over. These usually appear as bullet that nose dives into the ramp or crashes directly into the ramp and stops but the rear of the case is still n the feed lips.

If the bullet has made it to the chamber and is clear of the frames feed ramp and now under or trying to get under the extractor and free of the mag the problem is chambering. In my experience this is an extractor with too much tension, insufficient breech face to inner claw clearance (very common on Kimbers) and or the extractor needs more bevel and polish. People usually make up for this by adding heavier recoil springs to force the case through the problem. But this forces them to be a strong shooter to support the gun and get the limp wrist issue if they cannot.

Failure to lock is when the case is fully under the extractor and the cartridge is in line with the bore and usually about 90%or better fully in the chamber. This is usually seen as a "change your ammo" answer. But I feel that is wrong. What is is is that the leade of the chamber is short (common Kimber 45) and the ogive of the bullet is engaging the rifling too soon and prevents the gun from a complete chambering process prevent it from locking. Again the heavier or new recoil spring crowd chimes in. All this does is hammer the round into the chamber. The bullet ogive impacts the rifling so hard that the bullet overcomes the crimp and is pushed back into the case enough to completely chamber and lock. Starting to see how people get sucked into the need for new recoil spring so often? I went 14000 rounds on a Kimber Team Match without changing the recoil spring (or cleaning) with no issue. If the gun is set up right it'll run!

That gun also was a "dreaded" external extractor model.

It is not the overall length of the cartridge that is important but the distance from base to ogive. The 45 runs better with a Few thousandths of free bore and reamer makes short work of this. I have never found a kimber 45 chamber that a finish reamer doesn't remove some metal from. And creating the free bore makes them run all ammo.
 

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To add...

I really like Kimbers. I have 7 or 8. I also have inspected and tuned several at work and for friends over the years. But they are production guns and can be improved. I have seen guns such as yours go back to the plant after I measured some things. They returned with a little polishing here and there and new springs. With a note to clean more, lube more, replace recoil spring more often and or change ammo. I hope they have improved but I hate to see people get frustrated and spend money on springs rather than ammo when the overwhelming majority of Kimber 45s need a finished reamed chamber, longer leade and more extractor clearance.

Unfortunately I can say the same for many gunsmiths. The ones that specialize in 1911 will check. But some really don't or don't know. I only know two systems...1911 and AR15s. I have a friend that is a jack of all trades general gunsmith that has called me to his shop to diagnose some of the 1911s that come in. I just see more of them in a year than he does.
 

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I can tell you simple test to check the chamber and leade for you ammo by the way. If your interested. No special tools needed.
 

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This is a ramp pic of my PC II which has run great. (1 FTF in 2000 rnds)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That ramp does not appear to be bad. They do not need to be a mirror. I would like to see a photo of the stoppage as it occurs. We could learn more. Many will call a failure to chamber and a failure to lock a failure to feed. And each of these is a different stoppage that have different causes.
Thanks for all the info & your willingness to help me with this, Mike240! Here's a couple pics of the stoppage. I would be very interested in your ideas/opinions before I speak with Kimber. The stoppage in the photo is very typical of what it's been doing. Sometimes the round will be slightly more forward, but usually this is what I see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Chickadee, When you finish a magazine, do you leave the slide back, insert a new mag and then release the slide using the slide stop lever? Or do you return the slide first, put in the new magazine and the pull back the slide and let go? Folks here refer to that as "slingshotting."

My new gun is extremely tight and on the first range trip, the first round of a magazine did not go all the way in. The slide was a little less than 1/2 inch from being fully forward. I was using the slide stop lever to release the slide and chamber a round. After about 5 or 6 times it started working fine. On my second range trip, I used the slingshot method - no problems. Third range trip, I oiled the gun a bit more wet and I returned to releasing the slide using the slide stop lever to release the slide - no problems.

I ask this because I haven't seen this mentioned yet.

Some here say they never use the slide stop lever to release the slide and chamber a round. But that is the fastest way to reload, it works, and I always do it that way with my PC II and have 2000 rounds through it without that happening.
Thanks for the info & picture, Porcheville. I use the slingshot method every time.
 

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How many rds have you gone through, sometimes will work it self out after couple hundred rds. Also did you do a good cleaning an relube? If that fails back to kimber. I had a ultra carry two with similar problem
Kimber emailed me a shipping label an reamed the barrel again an have never had a problem after more than 2k rds so far love the weapon.
 

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Mike240

That was a great reply. My local gunsmith "throated " my SCUP and adjust the extractor when I had issues with it. Your explanation makes perfect sense. Thank you again for enlightening us. Me especially .
 
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