[kammphoto]

Hello everyone.
I just purchased a new warrior and have put 175 rounds through it so far. I know that Kimber recommends at least a 500 round break in period. I have cleaned and lubed the pistol per Kimber directions. With some additional lube. After shooting 175 rounds I cleaned the pistol again and noticed that the kimco finish is starting to come off from the slide rails. I was wondering if this was normal. I ask because on the kimber page it states that " The Kimco finish is self lubricating. " When I lubed the pistol up the first time, I did place more than enough oil on the slides. I put two drops at the end of the rails and let it run down the length to the slide. I also put oil on the frame rails. I used FP-10. The other problem that I has with the pistol was failure to feed. This would only happen for the first round that I was trying to chamber. Most times I would have to give it a little push to finish the job. Other times I had to take the magazine out try again. This does not happen after the first wound in a fresh magazine. I am using the magazine that came with the Warrior and 6 other Wilson magazines. Some 8 round and 7 round magazines. I never use the slide release. I always pull slide back and let it fly. If I load the magazines with one less bullet it seams to work fine. I am using CCI 230Gr FMJ. Does anyone know if this will straighten out after the 500 rounds?. Sorry for the long post. I wanted to be as thorough as I could. Thanks in advance.

 

[bigdog10]

Welcome to the forum. congrats on your new Warrior I would call Kimbers customer service and ask them about the finish. there have been a few members that have complained about the Kimco finish not holding up.

 

[Chuck43]

Welcome to the forum from northern Illinois kammphoto and congratulations on the new Warrior. I'm sorry to hear that you're having problems with the KimPro II frame finish, unfortunately the finish is the one weak spot on Kimbers. If you contact Kimbers customer service they will make it right but I'd wait until you've finished with the break in procedure. The other problem (FTF) you're experiencing should clear up but in the event you're not completely satisfied with it you can have both issues dealt with at the same time.

 

[kammphoto]

I thank both of you for the fast response. I will wait until I have the recommended shot count before I call Kimber. The finish I am not overly concerned about but I do hope that the FTF does straighten out. It is a fine shooter. I do have another question. Before I go out and buy some defense ammo do you have any knowledge of what will shoot in this pistol? I have some old Winchester black talon ammo that I will try in it the next time I go out but I would like your thoughts. Thanks again

 

[bigdog10]

Hornady critical defense is my choice.

 

[Chuck43]

You will find that you gun may not like certain brands of popular hollow points, it's not unusual to have 2 of the same model Kimbers not liking the same hollow point design. I'd wait to finish breaking in the gun with 230 gr. FMJ ball ammo before I started test shooting the more expensive defensive ammo. For what it's worth my Super Carry Pro likes Winchester 230 gr. Ranger T series ammo.

 

[Islander]

Welcome to the forum from Ohio! Kimber recommends 230 gr ball ammo during the break in period.

 

[Dude22]

Welcome from Ohio.

 

[slomo]

Welcome from Texas

 

[2sharp2]

Welcome to the site from Tennessee! You will just have to try different hollow point ammo to see what works in your Warrior.

 

[Insta-Gator]

Welcome to

After doing some research on FTF with my Kimber I learned that (1) sometimes a tight extractor will cause first-round FTF, (2) sometimes the mag spring being too strong (new) will cause this. Load your mags and leave them for a few days. Also, continue to shoot the 230 gr ball ammo and, if you are like me, the FTFs will just go away. I haven't had a FTF since the first range trip.

 

[Josey Wales]

Welcome from the East bank of the Raisin.

 

[Lineman]

Hey Ya'll!

Welcome to the forum from Beautiful Downtown Monroe, Georgia!!!

Congrats on your new Warrior. Enjoy and be safe!!

Try Winchester Supreme Bonded PDX1 Jacketed Hollow Point. My Custom Stainless II to seems to like them. They feed well and they perform very good on game (bobcat and deer--both one shot kills).

 

[v35b]

Welcome from Florida, The finish on the rails of my CDP II wore off on the first time I took it to the range, with 2000 round later there is n o wear showing but the are completely silver now.

 

[Mike240]

What ammo where you using when you had this issue? If the nose of the round had already cleared the frame feed ramp and the barrel feed ramp I suspect that it already had passed initial contact in the first quarter of the upper part of the chamber. If merely rapping the rear of the slide finished the chambering and locking process feeding already occurred and you problem is failure to chamber not feed. I suspect, as is typical with many Kimbers, that the extractor to breechface clearance is insufficient. Do you have a set of tapered feeler gauges? MeAsure the distance between the breechface and the inner claw of the extractor and let me know please. I will bet it is .069". If so the gun will likely have issue with high end ammo whose rims and cases are held to better tolerance. ThT distance should be .075"

I can tell you how to do it. Kimber won't. I frankly think they like it this way to keep you shooting expensive ammo but that distance is way under spec.

Don't confuse failure to feed with failure to chamber or failure to lock. Each is a different problem. There are 8 steps in the cycle of operation:

Assuming loaded and ready to fire first

Firing
Unlocking
Extracting
Ejecting
Cocking
Feeding
Chambering
Locking

Knowing at what point the problem occurs guides you to the problem that needs addressed.

 

[Islander]

What ammo where you using when you had this issue? If the nose of the round had already cleared the frame feed ramp and the barrel feed ramp I suspect that it already had passed initial contact in the first quarter of the upper part of the chamber. If merely rapping the rear of the slide finished the chambering g and locking process feeding already occurred and you problem is failure to chamber not feed. I suspect, as is typical with many Kimbers, that the extractor to breechface clearance is insufficient. Do you have a set of tampered feeler gauges? MeAsure the distance between the breechface and the inner claw of the extractor and let me know please. I will bet it is .069". If so the gun will likely have issue with high end ammo whose rims and cases are held to better tolerance. ThT distance should be .075"

I can tell you how to do it. Kimber won't. I frankly think they like it this way to keep you shooting expensive ammo but that distance is way under spec.

Don't confuse failure to feed with failure to chamber or failure to lock. Each is different problem. There are 8 steps in the cycle of operation:

Assuming loaded and ready to fire first

Firing
Unlocking
Extracting
Ejecting
Cocking
Feeding
Chambering
Locking

Knowing at what point the problem occurs guides you to the problem that needs addressed.

You forgot to say Grasshoper at the end.

 

[Mike240]

Welcome to

After doing some research on FTF with my Kimber I learned that (1) sometimes a tight extractor will cause first-round FTF, (2) sometimes the mag spring being too strong (new) will cause this. Load your mags and leave them for a few days. Also, continue to shoot the 230 gr ball ammo and, if you are like me, the FTFs will just go away. I haven't had a FTF since the first range trip.

This is good advise. Just to clarify when you mean the extractor is may be too tight you mean tension not tight as in clearance to breechface is that right.?

When deciding on extractor issues I like to use me or inspected brass to look as new. Then after firing inspect for burrs and displaced metal inside the rim.

If the round failed to chamber and lock. Pull prior to firing. You can mark its orientation prior to removal with a Sharpie since the slide is out of battery. This can help you locate what is causing the hang up. Displaced metal inside the rim tellers me the clearance of the extractor is insufficient or the bevel needs dressed.

 

[kammphoto]

Thanks everyone.
When I get a few minutes I will try to measure as Mike240 suggested. From what people have said I am leaning toward the extractor issue. Based from remembering what the chamber looked like when it hung up. The bullet did look like it was on its way into the chamber and that it was caught on the extractor.

 

[rkrobert86]

Hey Kammphoto, I'm new to the forum and a new 1911 owner as well. I bought the Kimber Warrior last week and I have been doing a lot of research on it. I bought it from a local gun store here in Greer, South Carolina and before the purchase, my buddy (who is part owner of the store and a licensed gunsmith) was filling me in on what to expect. He said that after the break in period that I will notice wear on the inside where the slide (metal on metal friction) will wear. He said that it was completely normal. He owns 14 Kimber 1911's so the guy knows what he is talking about.

Addressing your FTF... are you using the original Kimber mags when it jams? My buddy told me to take the Kimber magazine that came with the Warrior... and throw it in the trash. He said that Kimber mags are garbage and have issues all of the time. The reason being is that most 1911 owners know what magazines they are going to use (CMC, Les Bear, Ed Brown, Wilson Combat's, etc...) before they even buy a new 1911. Kimber knows this and does not waste their time with manufacturing top of the line mags... just top of the line guns... I guess it makes sense... but for $1,400.00... I kind of expect a working magazine...

Also, my buddy said to not even waste your time contacting Kimber until you have put 500 rounds through it first to break it in.

I'm sure what I have said, you probably already know... I hope all of this helps!



"When Tyranny Becomes Law, Rebellion Becomes Duty"

 

[2sharp2]

Hey Kammphoto, I'm new to the forum and a new 1911 owner as well. I bought the Kimber Warrior last week and I have been doing a lot of research on it. I bought it from a local gun store here in Greer, South Carolina and before the purchase, my buddy (who is part owner of the store and a licensed gunsmith) was filling me in on what to expect. He said that after the break in period that I will notice wear on the inside where the slide (metal on metal friction) will wear. He said that it was completely normal. He owns 14 Kimber 1911's so the guy knows what he is talking about.

Addressing your FTF... are you using the original Kimber mags when it jams? My buddy told me to take the Kimber magazine that came with the Warrior... and throw it in the trash. He said that Kimber mags are garbage and have issues all of the time. The reason being is that most 1911 owners know what magazines they are going to use (CMC, Les Bear, Ed Brown, Wilson Combat's, etc...) before they even buy a new 1911. Kimber knows this and does not waste their time with manufacturing top of the line mags... just top of the line guns... I guess it makes sense... but for $1,400.00... I kind of expect a working magazine...

Also, my buddy said to not even waste your time contacting Kimber until you have put 500 rounds through it first to break it in.

I'm sure what I have said, you probably already know... I hope all of this helps!

"When Tyranny Becomes Law, Rebellion Becomes Duty"

Kammphoto, I disagree with rkrobert86 advise from his buddy that you should throw your Kimber magazines into the trash. I am sure a lot of us here would agree. I have not had any issues with the magazines that came with the two Kimbers that I have and also have not had a problem with about 10 of the Kimpro Tac magazines.
I suggest doing your own testing and judge from there. Several problems can cause a FTF and not all are caused by the magazine.